Letter from Sydney Bruce in Yokohama to his wife Rose Mary Bruce in England, one month to the day after the Great Kanto Earthquake completely destroyed the city. Rose Mary had fortuitously left Japan for England two months prior…
46 Hariura Machi, Kobe, 1 Oct 1923
Darling,
Just had your letter dated the 23rd August, and a gentle reminder that I owe you more
than one. Have tried to write you once or twice but each time had to give it up – the
earthquake seems to have knocked all the stuffing out of me. What a bit of luck you left
here in July!! Not only prevented you from a bad shock to the nerves (although I expect
you had a bad time waiting for news of us) but you saved all your belongings, which
nobody else in Yokohama did.
The whole city and Bluff are as flat as a pancake. Dreadful sight, and it is a wonder that
so many of us are alive to tell the tale. Unfortunately, about 300 foreigners lost their
lives, quite a number among them are our friends – poor old Watson and Patterson, Tait,
Tom Abbey, Dr Reidhoad, Dr Wheeler, Dr. Ishiura, all gone.
I was on the train at the time, close to Omori Station, with Frank, Chapman and Catto,
travelling at about 40 miles an hour, and I have often wondered since how we kept on
the rails. The train pulled up eventually when we realized what happened, but we had
no idea of the extent of the damage in Yokohama, and the awful catastrophe which had
taken over the town.
We walked from Omori along the line to Kawasaki. The big bridge had sunk four feet in
the middle, and some of the bridge supports were right out of place. All this time
continuous shocks which nearly threw us off our feet, during one of which we were
passing a heavy freight train, and to see the engine being shaken as if it were a toy was
a bit scary to say the least.
From Kawasaki we took to the road. I think now this was a mistake. Nearly all the
houses were down, or partly so. And close to Tsuriumi we had to run through the fire. Of
course, it was already over, but still too hot to be comfortable. We eventually got back to
the railway again and from then on I decided to give the fires a wide berth, and as we
could not get further than Kanagawa on this account, we made for the Tokkaido in the
hope of eventually getting round the burning district and reaching the Bluff via
Nakamura. But we were too tired, and at 12 oʼclock at night found ourselves at the end
of the tram line beyond Nibombashi where we camped for the night in a field, being
provided with a couple of tatami by a Japanese whose house had collapsed, but had
escaped the fire.
At daybreak we started off again through the burnt district, a sight I shall never forget.
Great holes in the road, train rails twisted into all sorts of shapes, telephone and
telegraph wires blocking our path at almost every step. Bridges blazing away – we had
to cross one which was still burning. And tram cars, carts, and motor cars just burnt
where they stood from the time of the earthquake. Needless to say I had a very anxious
time, as I was not sure Vi and Maurice were alright. Fortunately, I knew where they
ought to have been at the time of the earthquake, but of course could not be sure. Vi, at
Yokohama Station in the car to meet me and Maurice, seeing some friends off on the
Empress of Australia. Comparatively safe places, although the pier where Maurice was
almost disappeared entirely into the harbour.
To add to our troubles it was intensely hot, and from 8 oʼclock on we got very little to
drink. However, we got out safely for which we have to be very thankful, and while our
losses are considerable – furniture, clothes and some stock in The Canadian Trading
Company – I am hoping I can recover my bonds (which were also burnt at the
Chartered Bank) as I happened to have the numbers of them in my safe at the Tokyo
office which was intact.
On arrival at the Bluff, at about 6 am, I was fortunate enough to have news of Maurice
and soon after was told that Vi was alright – Maurice on the Empress and Vi at the
Grimesseyʼs compound at Nagishi. So I sent word to her by young Geoffrey Fearon,
who just then came along, to tell her to come to the Bund(?) at once, and meanwhile
Frank, Levack and another young fellow named Heller and myself assisted in getting old
Captain Carst (who is unable to walk) down to the boat. Some funeral procession, I can
tell you (we were all dead tired and nothing to eat for 24 hours), having to climb over
fences and heaps of debris blocking the roadway, and wires everywhere.
I had previously been to have a look at the house – absolutely not a trace of anything
and about 12 to 15 feet of the bank had gone too. The one thing remaining was the
garage which had collapsed.
Iʼve been to Yokohama twice since, once to the memorial service on the 23rd
September, and again a few days later but am not anxious to go again as it has a very
depressing effect on everybody who visits it. Am enclosing a few photographs to give
you an idea of what it looks like now.
Thanks so much darling for all the trouble you are taking over the house, but am afraid
we shall have to let it go for a bit. I certainly canʼt afford anything like 1800 pounds for
one. Moreover, I cannot say when I can get home, although I should like to get away as
soon as possible but I must stay to try to recover my own property and that may take
some time, but as soon as I do I am off. Frank is also staying on for a bit, but Vi will
probably leave on the Katori Maru next month as arranged.
Just now I am oscillating between Tokyo and Kobe, as most of my staff are working in
Osaka for the next two months.
Tokyo is not quite as bad as Yokohama although miles and miles of it have been
completely destroyed by fire. Tokyo Station and all the offices in that neighbourhood are
all intact, however, likewise the new Imperial Hotel!! Although the Theatre and the big
Metropolitan Police Court were burnt out.
Sunday morning we had a rather bad shock in Kobe which sent all the Yokohama
refugees into the streets!! It was really nothing to worry about but everybodyʼs nerves
are badly shaken. So just even a door slamming is enough to give one the jumps.
Now about yourselves at home. I find it difficult to advise you. First of all I must ask you
to be careful which I know you always are, but I donʼt know what to do about Tubby.
Unless there is any real reason for keeping him at school after Christmas, I think he
should be starting in business. The expense is a heavy one for me now and he will be
nearly 17 and quite time he should make a start. Please consider this very carefully and
decide as promptly as possible, and also make inquiries regarding my brother if you can
and try to get those fees reduced. Bruces, _____ I think weʼll be together very soon and
they must do more than they have done hitherto.
Well, no more now. [Itʼs] nearly 11 oʼclock and I am tired. Weʼre dossing in a godown(?)
at present!! and Vi at the Libeaudʼs quite comfy and all well.
Lots of love and heaps of kisses
from your devoted
Hubby