Caldwells

Hi Gill,

Actually, disappearing is a family trait. Daniel The Smuggler left the family home in Singapore at 18 (actually, mum kicked him out for wild behaviour). He probably disappeared for years while playing pirate. Then his brother Henry Charles, the Chief Clerk of the Court in Singapore disappeared overnight in 1856 with his family (to avoid gaol for unpaid debts and stealing the court’s trust funds). He turned up at Macao, an escape later revealed to be financed and orchestrated by brother Daniel.

Years later, when Henry had become a lawyer in HK and settled his debt with Singapore, Daniel Edmund, my great grandfather and Daniel Sr’s eldest, articled with Henry, became a lawyer, worked at it for years and hated every minute, then on May 30, 1890, he was a no-show in court and was never heard from again. His wife and 3 kids were hung out to dry (I believe they were in England at the time). I don’t know how they survived. Oh, did I mention…Daniel took the trust funds from his law practice with him. Do you suppose he secretly conveyed money to the family? I’d like to think so.

And finally there’s Gus (Daniel Augustus Frederick Caldwell, 1873-1940). Gus was a ladies man. Hung out in the trendy neighbourhoods of London (Strand) and then found himself in Singapore, probably leaching off family there. All my family knew was that he apparently disappeared into the jungles of SE Asia. Years went by and then finally his sister Rose Mary (my grandmother) received a letter from him.

Let me see if I can dig it up…. yes, here it is. Prior to this, in 1926, Gus wrote Rose Mary a short note inviting her to write back if she was interested in hearing his news. Rose Mary did write back. She had not heard from her brother in at least 6 1/2 years and no doubt had thought him dead. Here is Gus’s response.

Who’s who:

Caruthers: husband of Rose Marie’s sister Rene
Bernard: Gus’s son by an earlier relationship (don’t know what happened to him. He disappeared in Java)
Rita: Chelsey’s grandmother
Millie and George: Rose Mary’s sister and brother in law
Frank: my father, Rose Mary’s eldest, Gus’s nephew
 

 

5 Mount Sophia, Singapore

6th September/26

My dear Rosie,

Many thanks for your welcome letter received today. It came a day or two after my birthday as we have not heard from each other for such an age. I must also thank you for the snap of yourself which I was pleased to get.You do not look very well but what matters as long as you feel fit.

I am so pleased to learn that the dear old mater is still alive and well enough to go to the Movies! I shall write to her by this mail also as I am having half a day off for the Races. I am sorry the Earthquake in Japan caused you any loss but I hope now that Sid is making a start for himself but all serious losses will be recovered in due time, provided the Soviets will allow British trade to be carried on. Fancy little Vi spliced! Good girl, I wish her all the best of luck for the future, and that of her husband. Any retinue yet? Send snaps as they turn up!

Marie and I are both OK and have 3 girls and a boy. We lost our dear Vera aged 9 months a few days after arriving in Canton. Edna is 6 1/2 years old, Laura 4 1/2, Allan 16 months, and our dear baby Rita 2 months 10. You see we are kept busy looking after the youngsters and providing for them. We will send you snaps as soon as we get some taken.

I joined a Dutch Company about 2 years ago upon my arrival from China and I am pleased to say I am getting on well and have done very  well for them.

We had a terrible time in Canton some months before we left as the Chinese became so anti-foreign and even life was insecure. This country has always been a lucky place for me and I do not intend returning to China again. I only hope the everlasting heat will not chase me out of the country as it did before after being a planter for 7 years. I have been out East for 20 years without a real change but seem to be pretty fit all the same and looking far younger than my age 53!

Marie has not been to England for many years but we all hope to pay a visit to the Old Country one of these days.

I had a wonderful experience in the Philipines after I left Japan, where I was exploring with some Americans and British for Guano, which we found in enormous quantities in deep caves within Cliffs in Luzon. The trouble in China put an end to our efforts as this was the market we intended for our stuff. It was nerve ruining business to be pulled up and down the face of cliffs several hundreds of feet, and then exploring the Caves  where there were millions of bats which attacked us with fury. We eventually took electric lighting plants up with us and gas masks, as the smell of ammonia suffocated us, and the darkness was awful.

What is Carruthers doing at Home? I hope he is getting on well and that Rene and the children are well too. You do not give me any news about Millie and George. Where are they and what are they doing? Please let me have their address as I should like to write to them. Where is your eldest son? [Frank] Is he still in Japan?I never hear from Bernard [Gus’s son] but I suppose he is still in Java tea planting. My mother-in-law and her son left for England a few months ago and are staying at Hamstead. He is a planter and we expect him back in November ____ after his holiday. We are staying at present with Marie’s Uncle and Aunt. They have a beautiful house and grounds but we shall probably take another house of our own near the sea early next year.

I am pretty busy what with one thing and the other, as I am trying to make some money for the future, but it is difficult to save. Do you ever see or hear anything of Bee. Please do not mention anything when [or] if you see her. The past is the past and I did my best, but the position was hopeless.

Well dear no more now, we must keep in touch with each other as life is shortening. Give my best love to Mater and tell her that although she is out of sight she has never been out of mind, as I have always prayed for her, but I am a terrible corespondent.

With best love to all and trusting to hear again from you soon,

Your affectionate Brother,

Gus

I myself, I am pleased to report, have not as yet disappeared, despite the temptation from time to time. Son Robin is clearly afflicted with the same gene and disappears routinely to various parts of the world. He expects to leave again shortly to the wilds of northern Canada.

Speaking of Robin, I asked him today what the state of Daniel and Mary’s graves were. He said Mary’s had been completely redone and was in perfect shape and that Daniel’s was in good shape, needing only a bit of cosmetics. Although one must take Robin’s view of perfection with a grain of salt, it doesn’t sound like they’re falling apart. Anyway, I’ll check with Sharon in HK and see what’s up.

I’ll let you know how the Chelsey visit goes.

Cheers, Peter

St Helena Bruces

Correspondence with Ian Bruce who has ancestry in St Helena and whom I queried for a possible connection. None apparent. Ian lives in Huddersfield Yorkshire and is a book publisher. He has considerable knowledge of the history of St Helena. Suggests I look into the Ancestry DNA analysis which provides more rigorous proof of connection. I could, for example, compare my code with his.

Feb 11, 2019
Hi Ian,

I was thrilled to get your prompt and helpful reply. In light of your busy days, it was kind of you to take the time. Thank you. I had noted the absence of Elizabeth Watts on your tree but anxious to make inroads on mine, I added Elizabeth, per the trees of Peter Gyton and Joan Mary Campbell. Then blithely went ahead and added half the population of St Helena. On receiving your email I had an uh-oh moment and went back to check the sources for Elizabeth. There are none! So for the month of February (not a particularly inviting time in this part of the world anyway) you may well find me sitting at the computer deleting half the population of St Helena from my tree — one by one. Joan’s source is simply not credible to me; Peter I will contact for his source. Ah me.
 
It’s interesting to hear that you have or are aware of considerable info on the Caldwells. I have very little. Several years ago I canvassed the St Helena Yahoo group for info but got nothing. If you could steer me in the right direction I’d be most grateful.  No rush, whenever the smoke clears for you.
 
Yes, I have done the ancestry DNA test. I have not explored the code. I will do so and let you know what I find. Many thanks for the info Ian. You are clearly a details person. From the Elizabeth Watts matter, I evidently, am not.
 
Yorkshire, is it? Damn shame we didn’t meet sooner. My wife Randi and I were in Yorkshire (York mostly) in September. Did not see you around but did not go to Huddersfield. That could account for it. I’ve got deep roots in Yorkshire — Richardsons, the chocolate people, Wighams, etc. — Quakers all. More roots in Birmingham and Worcester. Well, all over England and Ireland, actually. 
 
Here’s a silly account of our trip (which was grand): www.newearthvillage.com/islice/england/
 
Thank you again for your help Ian. Let’s stay in touch. Attached are the promised edited images. All the best, Peter
 
 
Feb 14, 2019
Hello Peter
 
After centuries of interbreeding between white European farmers/merchants/administrators/military/seamen with Indian/Madagascar/Indonesian/Chinese/African mainly of slave origin, St Helena is a hotchpotch of a great many races. I think it is what the population of a shrinking and intermixed world is likely to look like in a few centuries time. 
 
This wide range of colours and ethnicities has already been a feature of St Helena for several centuries. In my experience, “native” is not a common term on St Helena. However, it is safe to assume that white children born on St Helena would not be described as “native”. Because of the level of interbreeding, there was a wide range of skin colours and it is hard to know how dark the colour of children described as “native” would be. 
 
Far more common is the term “free” and almost all such persons would have slave ancestry. That said, anyone claiming ancestry from St Helena is highly likely to have some slave blood within them. Some slaves were freed even in the 1600s, although they were not given easy lives by the ruling white population and were encouraged to leave the island. St Helena was one of the first EIC/British colonies to start the process of emancipating its slave population, but for that very reason was one of the last to end it. Whereas most owners were compensated by the Government for the loss of their slaves, at St Helena the slaves were effectively expected to pay for their own freedom via a loan which was passed onto their owners. Each liberated slave was encumbered with a crippling debt that would take years to pay off. Whereas most colonies liberated their slaves overnight, the process took many years at St Helena and did not end until about 1836.
 
Regards Ian
 
 

Feb 14, 2019
Once again Ian, thank you for your very cogent and interesting piece on racial intermixing on St Helena. My DNA analysis shows 2% SE Asia and 5% China, both probably a mix of my St Helena connection and notably my Chinese GG grandmother (Hong Kong). As they say, the great thing genealogy teaches us is that we are indeed, all one. It is also a reminder about (a) how brutal we human beings have been and continue to be to one another and (b) how determined and successful we can be to build a better world — slaves and slave owners, warriors and saints, dictators and rebels, often all in one tree. It is certainly true of my tree. Such an odd species, we are.

All the best, Peter

G W at Penang

Jun 19, 2017, 12:27 PM
  

Both son Robin and friend Gill visited Prince of Wales Cemetery in Penang looking for Daniel Caldwell (1788-1828). Robin found his name in the register but no or few graves remained. It was the original colonial cemetery and was bombed by the Japanese during WWII.

Hi, I have some of those photos. I think I told you the husband of Anna Leowin of King and I fame is buried there too. I couldn’t find Daniel on any of the records at the cemetery so it is good that he found the evidence in an archive. I do hope they keep the cemetery. I am concerned that they might build over it as it is prime land and looking at Robin’s photos it hasn’t been refurbished since we were there 5 years ago.Gill

to me

 

Peter

Jun 20, 2017, 2:48 AM
  
 
to Gillian
 
 
 
Hi Gill,

Yes, I’d forgotten you went there. I lost a lot of genealogical info back then when my inbox simply disappeared. Very frustrating. The fate of the Hong Kong Cemetery seems equally tenuous. Again, on prime land in the heart of the city. Daniel’s plot is right next to the highway, apparently.

The family’s loss of Daniel at age 39 must have been devastating. My guess is that they packed up and went to Singapore forthwith, hoping for better opportunity. Possibly the family had relatives (Uncle Richard Caldwell?) or friends there. As far as we know, when Daniel Caldwell died in Penang there were 4 children — Mary Ann (15), Henry Charles (14) Daniel (12) and Sarah Elizabeth (10).

Must to bed. Peter

Caldwell D 1788

20 Mar 2017: Son Robin is in Penang searching for the grave of Daniel Caldwell, his 3x grandfather. He writes of his findings:
 
So I found him, kind of. On a tip I visited the Northam Road Protestant Cemetary in George Town – final resting place for many of the colonial up and ups.
 
Scoured the cemetery looking at every gravestone. Many are now illegible, others have wasted away to rubble, still others destroyed during the Japanese bombings and occupation during WWII. Found a few Bruces, Lawrences and Mitchells, but no sign of Daniel.
 
Next stop was the heritage society. They had a fabulous pictorial encyclopedia on the cemetery, complete with photojournalistic write-ups on all the known quantities there. Still no note of Daniel, but in perusing the appendices I found his name listed in the “additional known burials” section, meaning there was record of his burial but no (legible) grave to speak of.
 
Cool to know he’s there buried somewhere tho. 
 
Also found an eerie headstone for an R. Bruce (see attached), and Sir Francis Light, the founder of the colony.
 
 
 
6 Attachments (images of the cemetery)
 
 
 

Caldwell H C

This is a note to son Robin who visited Penang and in this case, Hong Kong to research the relatives. I make comment on Henry Caldwell, Robins third great uncle, born on the island of St Helena, deep in the South Atlantic Ocean.
 
Hi Rob,

You won’t find Henry in the cemetery. He died comfortably in England. Henry, your great, great, great uncle (Daniel’s brother), had his own intriguing story which I relate below as a quote from page 590 of the History of the laws and courts of Hongkong by Norton-Kyshe:

On 2nd June, 1859, a brother of the now famous Mr D.R.Caldwell, the Registrar-General and Protector of Chinese, named Henry Charles Caldwell arrived in Hong Kong from London by the ship Northfleet. He had previously been Registrar of the Recorder’s Court at Singapore and was a fugitive defaulter from there, having some years before embezzled trust moneys in his official capacity. Ever since his detection in 1856-1857 a backed criminal warrant from Singapore had been lying in the hands of the Superintendent of Police at Hong Kong for execution at the moment of his expected arrival in the Colony, his wife and family having preceded him. Yet on Mr H.C.Caldwell’s arrival, not only was he not arrested but actually allowed to depart out of the jurisdiction the same night for Macau, where his brother, Mr D.R.Caldwell, had previously obtained a residence for him and where he was to carry on the business as a notary and general agent amongst the Chinese. By what influence Mr H.C.Caldwell was thus allowed to escape the meshes of the law is not apparent, but suffice it to say that the matter did not escape Mr Anstey, who at once brought it to the notice of the Secretary of State. The local press also took up the subject in strong terms, but Mr H.C.Caldwell was allowed the greatest immunity from any possible interference.

How he got out of his difficulties and whether he or others on his behalf “compounded his felony” is enveloped in mystery, but he eventually found his way back to Hong Kong and entered the office of Messrs Cooper-Turner and Hazeland, solicitors; then he articled himself to Mr R.C.Owen, the barrister (who under the provisions of Ordinance number 13 of 1862 had elected to act as an attorney), being admitted some years after as an attorney and solicitor of the Court. He soon made for himself a lucrative practice and became one of the leading solicitors in Hong Kong. Another of the wonderful incidents in regard to the history of this Colony. Mr H.C.Caldwell having amassed a competency retired to England, and died at his residence at Twickenham, England, on 28 June, 1883, at the age of sixty-eight.

From: https://archive.org/stream/historylawsandc00nortgoog#page/n633/mode/2up

Seems pretty obvious that Daniel pulled strings in mighty high places to save his brother’s neck. Daniel was intensely loyal to his friends and family. When the notorious Mah Chow Wong was finally convicted of possession of stolen property and given 8 years of hard labour, Daniel tried everything in his power to ease the sentence or at least improve Wong’s living conditions in prison. His efforts did not go unnoticed by his enemies, notably Wiliam Anstey, the Attornal General, who argued publicly that Daniel’s defence of Wong was further evidence of his corruption.

Caldwell Henry Charles

More about Henry from the website Gwulo, Old Hong Kong:

Born about 1814, a son of Daniel Caldwell (b.1788 St Helena d.1828 Penang Straits Settlement) who married Mary Manay (b.1797 St Helena d.Singapore) on St Helena on 06 Aug 1814.

HC Caldwell’s brother Daniel Richard Francis Caldwell (b.19 Sep 1816 St Helena d.02 Oct 1875 Hong Kong) married in 1851 in Hong Kong to Mary Ayow Chan (1834-1895).

Henry Charles Caldwell married in Singapore on 23 Jan 1838 to Eliza Lecerf. They lived at Caldwell House (aka ‘Chijmes’). They had a daughter Eliza Juliet.

In Singapore, Henry Charles Caldwell was apparantly a sworn clerk (1836-39). a senior clerk (1839-55) & a registrar (1855-6).

Apparantly, he left Singapore in 1856 due to financial difficulties (ref.Singapore Street Names by Victor R Savage & Brenda Yeoh 2013).

In 1863, HC Caldwell is listed as a notary public in Queen’s Road, Hong Kong (ref. The China Dir. 1863) with Roger Carmichael Robert Owen (Barrister).

 
In 1867 William Henry Brereton http://gwulo.com/node/21937 joined the law firm in Hong Kong of Henry Charles Caldwell & became a partner by 1870 (‘Caldwell & Brereton’). After 1871, following Henry Charles Caldwell’s departure from Hong Kong, the firm became known as ‘Brereton & Wootton’.  In 1880 the firm was joined by Victor Hobart Deacon & became ‘Brereton, Wootton & Deacon’.  The firm exists today in Hong Kong as Deacons http://gwulo.com/node/21983 .

Henry Charles Caldwell died in 1883 at Heath House, Twickenham, Middlesex, England.  Probate was granted to his wife & daughter.

Caldwells Info

Peter Bruce to Robin Bruce who visited the Public Records Office in Hong Kong ti research the Caldwells

More about Henry from the website Gwulo, Old Hong Kong:

Born about 1814, a son of Daniel Caldwell (b.1788 St Helena d.1828 Penang Straits Settlement) who married Mary Manay (b.1797 St Helena d.Singapore) on St Helena on 06 Aug 1814.

HC Caldwell’s brother Daniel Richard Francis Caldwell (b.19 Sep 1816 St Helena d.02 Oct 1875 Hong Kong) married in 1851 in Hong Kong to Mary Ayow Chan (1834-1895).

Henry Charles Caldwell married in Singapore on 23 Jan 1838 to Eliza Lecerf. They lived at Caldwell House (aka ‘Chijmes’). They had a daughter Eliza Juliet.

In Singapore, Henry Charles Caldwell was apparantly a sworn clerk (1836-39). a senior clerk (1839-55) & a registrar (1855-6).

Apparantly, he left Singapore in 1856 due to financial dificulties (ref.Singapore Street Names by Victor R Savage & Brenda Yeoh 2013).

In 1863, HC Caldwell is listed as a notary public in Queen’s Road, Hong Kong (ref. The China Dir. 1863) with Roger Carmichael Robert Owen (Barrister).

 
In 1867 William Henry Brereton http://gwulo.com/node/21937 joined the law firm in Hong Kong of Henry Charles Caldwell & became a partner by 1870 (‘Caldwell & Brereton’). After 1871, following Henry Charles Caldwell’s departure from Hong Kong, the firm became known as ‘Brereton & Wootton’.  In 1880 the firm was joined by Victor Hobart Deacon & became ‘Brereton, Wootton & Deacon’.  The firm exists today in Hong Kong as Deacons http://gwulo.com/node/21983 .

Henry Charles Caldwell died in 1883 at Heath House, Twickenham, Middlesex, England.  Probate was granted to his wife & daughter.

 
 
 

Femme Fatale

We pick up the story of Francis Mitchell in Hobart, Tasmania (then Van Diemen’s Land) where Francis has taken work as the island’s coroner. Early in 1881, Francis Jr (34) and his wife Charlotte pay a visit to the Mitchells in Hobart. It is 5:00 PM February 1, 1881. Francis, Mary, Francis Jr and Charlotte are sitting round the fire in the drawing room sipping mulled wine. Francis Jr speaks:

“My dear parents, do you still insist on not joining us at the theatre this evening? I would love to treat. You’ve been so good to us this trip. Please come, won’t you?”

“Not this time son. I’m just not feeling up to it. I’ve been doing a lot of travel lately and I’m not a young man any more. There will be lots of other opportunities. But thank you. I appreciate the invitation. Mother, what about you.”

“No thank you Francis. I’m happy to stay home and relax with your father. We’ve got a cozy fire going and I’ve got some knitting to catch up on. You and Charlotte take this time for yourselves. But thank you all the same.”

Charlotte speaks. “Francis, are you sure you’re up to it. Your fainting spells have increased recently and I’m worried about you. We can easily go to the theatre another time when you’re more stable.”

“Charlotte, I’m just fine. Really. I feel top notch today. But if it will make you feel better, take along the smelling ammonia in the off chance I have a spell. Come on then, we’d best get ready.”

Almost the entire who’s who of Hobart are in the theatre lobby at intermission. The women, in expensive gowns and far too much make-up, the men in formal evening wear. The air in the lobby is thick with the smoke of pipes, cigars and cigarettes. Patrons cluster with old friends and exchange pleasantries. All is as it should be and then…
There is a gasp in the crowd. Someone yells “MAN DOWN. GET A DOCTOR.” Francis is lying
face up on the floor.

Charlotte, on edge about her husbands recent bout of fainting spells, cries out and rushes frantically to where the crowd has parted to make room for the unconscious man. Francis is lying face up on the floor. His mouth is hanging open. “Oh dear God,” she cries, “Francis!”

Charlotte is visibly agitated, barely able to focus on what she must do next. From her purse she takes a small glass vial and removes the stopper. Her hand is shaking uncontrollably.

Kneeling down, and unthinking, she tucks the vial of ammonia under his nose. In an instant she realizes her mistake. The ammonia pours from the vial and slips into her husband’s mouth and down his throat.
“Oh my God, what have I done? My dear husband, please forgive me.
Please, please, somebody help.”

A doctor is found and attends the stricken man, but there is nothing he can do. The ammonia has done its work. For two days, Francis endures unspeakable pain, then dies.

Post script:

Charlotte never remarried. Perhaps she felt it her penance to live her life alone; perhaps she loved Francis too much to love another. She died in England at fifty-nine. A year after the death of her son, almost to the day, Francis’ mother Mary died. Some say she died of a broken heart.

Betrothed

The Unsuitable Suitor

A man of standing

In the mid 1800s, he was the Postmaster General of Hong Kong and by some accounts, he was bright, accomplished and difficult. His name was Francis William Mitchell and he was my great great grandfather.

Francis was a lawyer by training. He began his articles in London as a young man, then made a fateful decision to immigrate to Hong Kong with his new wife Mary.
There, he found a position with the post office and in time, worked his way up to be Postmaster General. He was exceptionally good at what he did — organizing and managing. So good, in fact, he was lent out to China and the Philippines to reorganize their postal services. King Amadeus of Spain was so grateful he knighted the man.

Yet although he was outstanding at his work, his personal relationships were less than sterling. He seems to have been a ‘my way or the highway’ sort, used to thundering out orders at the office and confused, probably, that friends and family held views that differed from his. Nevertheless, he made a huge contribution in his world of work.

Befitting Francis’s position, the Mitchells live in The Peak district of Hong Kong, among the wealthy and elite. Francis and Mary have two children, Mary and Francis Jr. You’re about to drop in on the family three times to witness life-changing events that occurred in 1874, 1881 and 1887. This post is Part 1: 1874 — The Unsuitable Suitor

The Engagement

It is 9:05 in the morning, August 12, 1874. No need to knock. We are in the drawing room. It’s Sunday and Francis is sleeping in. Downstairs young Mary (25) paces the kitchen floor. Her mother Mary is seated at the table, sipping tea and staring absently at nothing in particular. Quiet now….

“When is he going to come down Mother? I can’t stand much more of this.”
“He won’t be much longer, dear. Be patient.”
Young Mary is frantic. “I’m about to have a conversation with that obstreperous old bear of a father which he is not going to like about the future course of my life and I’m supposed to be patient?”
“Mary, your father is not the easiest man to deal with, I confess, but he does deserve our respect…and our love. Don’t forget that.”
“Oh I’m sorry Mother. I just need to get this over with and get on with my life with Daniel — away from this house! Oh dear, he’s coming down now.”

“Good morning father.”
“Good morning Mary. Good morning dear. Well now. You two look like you swallowed the canary. Dare I ask?”
“Father, I’ve got some exciting news to tell you.”
“Really, what is it Sweetheart?”
“Daniel and I are going to be married. We are betrothed.”

“What? My God girl, you cannot be serious. You hardly know the man. And he certainly has not approached me for your hand.”

“Father, we’ve been seeing each other for eight months, and he had every intention to speak to you, but I told him that I preferred to tell you the news myself. And I am serious father. Very serious. He’s a wonderful man and I love him dearly.”

“He’s a Caldwell, damn it. His father’s a scoundrel; his uncle’s a scoundrel. No Mary. I cannot allow it. It is absolutely out of the question. I will not have my daughter married to a Caldwell. It would discredit our family, tarnish my reputation irreparably and God knows where you would end up. Absolutely not.”
“I’m afraid I am marrying Daniel, father. I hope you will give us your blessing and wish us well. But if you choose not to, that is your loss.” Mary, in tears, runs from the kitchen.

Young Mary’s mother takes up the cause, “Francis, for goodness sake, Mary is a grown woman. She must make her own decisions and yes, live with them.” It’s not up to us to decide whom she should marry and whom not.”

“Mary, I cannot stop our Mary from marrying that man, but I swear to God, he will not step foot in this house. And we will not be attending the marriage.”

“You will not, perhaps, but I will. I will not abandon our daughter because you have a bone to pick with the Caldwells.”

And that was that. Mary Mitchell and Daniel Edmond Caldwell (my great grandparents) married the following year. Francis was ‘unavoidably’ absent in China on business.

Young Mary’s brother, Francis Junior, served as witness. And perhaps coincidentally, perhaps not, Francis retired from the Post Office that same year, 1875, and he and Mary left Hong Kong to begin another life in Hobart, Tasmania.

Was Francis so shamed by his unwanted connection to the Caldwells that he could not bear to remain in Hong Kong? Did he fear becoming ostracized by his friends and colleagues? Did Mary and her father speak to each other again? We don’t know.

The Caldwells: Saints or Sinners

Some say Old Man Mitchell wasn’t far off the mark. The Caldwells were indeed a controversial and influential Hong Kong family. My great great grandfather, Daniel R Caldwell smuggled opium into Canton as a young privateer.

Later, his remarkable linguistic skills and his rapport with the Chinese community of Hong Kong made him indispensable to the colonial government. However, Daniel R Caldwell had close connections with the Hong Kong underworld. Information from those informants allowed him, in partnership with the British Navy, to rout and destroy thousands of pirates who had devastated trade in and out of Hong Kong. Those connections and his past life as a smuggler, however, left many in Hong Kong wondering where Daniel’s loyalties really lay — on the right or the wrong side of the law.

Daniel’s brother Henry Caldwell spent most of his career in Singapore where, for 28 years, he was an officer of the court. There, he was much liked and greatly admired as a man of integrity and talent.

One day an audit determined that $100,000 of trust funds were missing. Henry could not provide a satisfactory explanation. Facing a lengthy prison sentence, he, along with his family, slipped away in the night leaving everything they owned behind. They re-appeared in Hong Kong where Henry started again, became a lawyer, and paid back his creditors in full.

Young Mary’s Daniel Edmond Caldwell also became a lawyer. In letters to his wife who, with the children, were visiting in England, he makes reference to mounting family expenses and how much he hated his work. Was he at the end of his tether? Quite possibly, for he took a page from his uncle’s playbook and disappeared with his client’s trust funds. He was never heard from again. Mary lived out her days alone in England.

Cabin & Steerage

Assisted immigrants

Some immigrants paid for their own passages, but many had their fares paid by colonisation companies or the government. They travelled in steerage – a low-ceilinged space beneath the main deck. Those paying their own way were usually in ‘second’ or ‘intermediate’ cabins, or in a saloon cabin below the poop deck, at the stern. In 1866 the cheapest saloon fare was more than three times that of steerage. Steerage passengers generally outnumbered those in the cabins by 10 to 1.Class distinctions

Britain’s class distinctions continued on board. Privileged cabin passengers enjoyed more space, privacy and better food. When the Otago paused at the island of Madeira in 1879, fresh fruit was brought on board, but it was ‘all for the cabin’. Down in steerage, class resentment sometimes simmered. One reason given by the surgeon of the Christian McAusland (1872) for keeping cabin passengers off emigrant ships was that ‘an ignorant and unreasoning lot of agricultural people are made doubly discontented and dissatisfied at only viewing the cabin victuals, livestock and fresh meat etc. which they are unable to obtain’. 1

However, on many ships rigid class distinctions began to break down, anticipating New Zealand’s more fluid class structure. Some cabin passengers mingled with those in steerage. The explorer and writer Samuel Butler formed a choir on the Roman Emperor through which, he said, he was ‘glad … to form the acquaintance of many of the poorer passengers’. 2

Not all the cabin passengers approved: there were complaints about ‘the impudence of steerage’, and one remarked that ‘even the poorest imagine that they will be grand folk in New Zealand’. 3Conditions in steerage

Writing of the conditions in steerage, one cabin passenger commented, ‘Poor creatures, it is a horrible place between decks, so many people in so small a space, I wonder how they live’. 4 Steerage passengers slept in tiers of bunks. They were provided with mattresses, but not bedding. Bunk space was cramped, and tables and forms occupied the spaces between tiers. The headroom between decks could be as little as 1.8 metres.

Steerage was divided into three compartments: single men occupied the forward area, next to the crew’s quarters; single women were aft; and married couples were in the middle. Separate hatchways gave access to each compartment.The cuddy

When Michael Studholme named the first small hut on his Te Waimate sheep station in South Canterbury in 1854 he brought the nautical term ‘cuddy’ ashore. At sea, this was the saloon cabin at the stern, in which the wealthier immigrants travelled in greater comfort than those in steerage. The use of the word for a cramped but snug hut seems to be confined to New Zealand. There is also a surviving cuddy at Mt Gladstone in Marlborough.Church services

During religious services the separation between cabin and steerage was relaxed. On the Lord Auckland (1842) the captain initially read prayers to the cabin passengers in the cuddy (the saloon cabin), while the doctor read them to the steerage passengers and crew below. Later on this voyage, all the passengers assembled on the main deck for prayers. Finally steerage passengers were admitted to the cuddy for prayers.

Eventually it became usual for cabin and steerage passengers to form a single congregation. Shipboard concerts also brought passengers of all classes together as both performers and audience.Single women

On ships with all-male crews and single men as passengers, the character and future prospects of single female immigrants were thought to be at risk. Men were denied access to the women’s compartments, and captains were instructed to ‘prohibit familiarities’ between unmarried men and women.

When the Friedeberg sailed without a matron in 1872, a ‘serious breach of discipline’ resulted. Two men gained access to the single women’s compartment by night, but the surgeon judged it ‘more a case of frolicsome mischief’ than anything else. 5

The vulnerability of single women to the attentions of young upper-class men, who tended to look on single, lower-class women as ‘fair game’, was one argument against having cabin passengers on emigrant ships.

Source:Encyclopedia of New Zealand: http://www.teara.govt.nz/en/the-voyage-out/page-3

St Helena History

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia 

Saint Helena has a known history of over 500 years since its recorded discovery by the Portuguese in 1502. Claiming to be Britain’s second oldest colony, this is one of the most isolated islands in the world and was for several centuries of vital strategic importance to ships sailing to Europe from Asia and South Africa. For several centuries, the British have used the island as a place of exile, most notably for Napoleon Bonaparte, Dinuzulu kaCetshwayo and over 5,000 Boer prisoners.

Discovery and early years, 1502–1658

Most historical accounts state the island was discovered on 21 May 1502 by the Galician navigator João da Nova sailing at the service of the Portuguese Crown, on his voyage home from India, and that he named it “Santa Helena” after Helena of Constantinople. Given this is the feast day used by the Greek Orthodox Church, it has been argued that the discovery was probably made on 18 August, the feast day used by the Roman Catholic Church.

It has also been suggested that the island may not have been discovered until 30 July 1503 by a squadron under the command of Estêvão da Gama and that da Nova actually discovered Tristan da Cunha on the feast day of St Helena.[1][2][3] The Portuguese found it uninhabited, with an abundance of trees and fresh water. They imported livestock (mainly goats), fruit trees, and vegetables, built a chapel and one or two houses, and left their sick, suffering from scurvy and other ailments, to be taken home, if they recovered, by the next ship, but they formed no permanent settlement. The island thereby became crucially important for the collection of food and as a rendezvous point for homebound voyages from Asia. The island was directly in line with the Trade Winds which took ships rounding the Cape of Good Hope into the South Atlantic. St Helena was much less frequently visited by Asia-bound ships, the northern trade winds taking ships towards the South American continent rather than the island.

It is a popular belief that the Portuguese managed to keep the location of this remote island a secret until almost the end of the 16th century. However, both the location of the island and its name were quoted in a Dutch book in 1508, which described a 1505 Portuguese expedition led by Francisco de Almeida from the East Indies: “[o]n the twenty-first day of July we saw land, and it was an island lyng six hundred and fifty miles from the Cape, and called Saint Helena, howbeit we could not land there. […] And after we left the island of Saint Helena, we saw another island two hundred miles from there, which is called Ascension”.[4]

Also, Lopo Homem-Reineis published the “Atlas Universal” about 1519 which clearly showed the locations of St Helena and Ascension. The first residents all arrived on Portuguese vessels. Its first known permanent resident was Portuguese, Fernão Lopez who had turned traitor in India and had been mutilated by order of Albuquerque, the Governor of Goa. Fernando Lopez preferred being marooned to returning to Portugal in his maimed condition, and lived on Saint Helena from about 1516. By royal command, Lopez returned to Portugal about 1526 and then travelled to Rome, where Pope Clement VII granted him an audience. Lopez returned to Saint Helena, where he died in 1545.

When the island was discovered, it was covered with unique indigenous vegetation. Claims that on discovery the island “was entirely covered with forests, the trees drooping over the tremendous precipices that overhang the sea”[5] have been questioned.[6] It is argued that the presence of an endemic plover and several endemic insects adapted to the barren and arid coastal portions of the island are strong indications that these conditions existed before the island was discovered. Nevertheless, St Helena certainly once had a rich and dense inland forest. The loss of endemic vegetation, birds and other fauna, much of it within the first 50 years of discovery, can be attributed to the impact of humans and their introduction of goats, pigs, dogs, cats, rats as well as the introduction of non-endemic birds and vegetation into the island.

Sometime before 1557, two slaves from Mozambique, one from Java, and two women, escaped from a ship and remained hidden on the island for many years, long enough for their numbers to rise to twenty. Bermudez, the Patriarch of Abyssinia landed at St Helena in 1557 on a voyage to Portugal, remaining on the island for a year. Three Japanese ambassadors on an embassy to the Pope also visited St Helena in 1583.

Strong circumstantial evidence supports the idea that Sir Francis Drake located the island on the final lap of his circumnavigation of the world (1577–1580).[7] It is suspected this explains how the location of the island was certainly known to the English only a few years later, for example, William Barrett (who died in 1584 as English consul at Aleppo, Syria)[8] stated the island was “sixteene degrees to the South”, which is precisely the correct latitude. Again, it is also clear that the Elizabethan adventurer Edward Fenton at the very least knew the approximate location of the island in 1582.[9]

It therefore seems unlikely that when Thomas Cavendish arrived in 1588 during his first attempt to circumnavigate the world, he was the first Englishman to land at the island. He stayed for 12 days and described the valley (initially called Chapel Valley) where Jamestown is situated as “a marvellous fair and pleasant valley, wherein divers handsome buildings and houses were set up, and especially one which was a church, which was tiled, and whitened on the outside very fair, and made with a porch, and within the church at the upper end was set an alter…. This valley is the fairest and largest low plot in all the island, and it is marvellous sweet and pleasant, and planted in every place with fruit trees or with herbs…. There are on this island thousands of goats, which the Spaniards call cabritos, which are very wild: you shall sometimes see one or two hundred of them together, and sometimes you may behold them going in a flock almost a mile long.

Another English seaman, Captain Abraham Kendall, visited Saint Helena in 1591, and in 1593 Sir James Lancaster stopped at the island on his way home from the East. Once St Helena’s location was more widely known, English ships of war began to lie in wait in the area to attack Portuguese India carracks on their way home. As a result, in 1592 Philip II of Spain and I of Portugal (1527–1598) ordered the annual fleet returning from Goa on no account to touch at St Helena. In developing their Far East trade, the Dutch also began to frequent the island. One of their first visits was in 1598 when an expedition of two vessels piloted by John Davis (English explorer) attacked a large Spanish Caravel, only to be beaten off and forced to retreat to Ascension Island for repairs. The Italian merchant Francesco Carletti, claimed in his autobiography he was robbed by the Dutch when sailing on a Portuguese ship in 1602.[10]

The Portuguese and Spanish soon gave up regularly calling at the island, partly because they used ports along the West African coast, but also because of attacks on their shipping, desecration to their chapel and images, destruction of their livestock and destruction of plantations by Dutch and English sailors. In 1603 Lancaster again visited Saint Helena on his return from the first voyage equipped by the British East India Company. In 1610, by which time most Dutch and English ships visited the island on their home voyage, François Pyrard de Laval deplored the deterioration since his last visit in 1601, describing damage to the chapel and destruction of fruit trees by cutting down trees to pick the fruit. Whilst Thomas Best, commander of the tenth British East India Company expedition reported plentiful supplies of lemons in 1614, only 40 lemon trees were observed by the traveller Peter Mundy in 1634.

The Dutch Republic formally made claim to St Helena in 1633, although there is no evidence that they ever occupied, colonised or fortified it. A Dutch territorial stone, undated but certainly later than 1633, is presently kept in the island’s archive office. By 1651, the Dutch had mainly abandoned the island in favour of their colony founded at the Cape of Good Hope.

East India Company, 1658–1815 ‘A View of the Town and Island of St Helena in the Atlantic Ocean belonging to the English East India Company’, engraving c. 1790

The idea for the English to make claim to the island was first made in a 1644 pamphlet by Richard Boothby. By 1649, the East India Company ordered all homeward-bound vessels to wait for one another at St Helena and in 1656 onward the Company petitioned the government to send a man-of-war to convoy the fleet home from there. Having been granted a charter to govern the island by the Lord Protector of the Commonwealth Oliver Cromwell in 1657,[11] the following year the Company decided to fortify and colonise St Helena with planters. A fleet commanded by Captain John Dutton (first governor, 1659–1661) in the Marmaduke arrived at St Helena in 1659. It is from this date that St Helena claims to be Britain’s second oldest colony (after Bermuda). A fort, originally named the Castle of St John, was completed within a month and further houses were built further up the valley. It soon became obvious that the island could not be made self-sufficient and in early 1658, the East India Company ordered all homecoming ships to provide one ton of rice on their arrival at the island.

With the restoration of the monarchy in 1660, the fort was renamed James Fort, the town Jamestown and the valley James Valley, all in honour of the Duke of York, later James II of England. The East India Company immediately sought a Royal Charter, possibly to give their occupation of St Helena legitimacy. This was issued in 1661 and gave the Company the sole right to fortify and colonise the island “in such legal and reasonable manner the said Governor and Company should see fit”. Each planter was allocated one of 130 pieces of land, but the Company had great difficulty attracting new immigrants, the population falling to only 66, including 18 slaves, by 1670. John Dutton’s successors as governor, Robert Stringer (1661–1670) and Richard Coney (1671–1672), repeatedly warned the Company of unrest amongst the inhabitants, Coney complaining the inhabitants were drunks and ne’er-do-wells. In 1672 Coney was seized by rebellious members of the island’s council and shipped back to England. Coincidentally, the Company had already sent a replacement governor, Anthony Beale (1672–1673).

Finding that the cape was not the ideal harbour they originally envisaged, the Dutch East India Company launched an armed invasion of St Helena from the Cape colony over Christmas 1672. Governor Beale was forced to abandon the island in a Company ship, sailing to Brazil where he hired a fast ship. This he used to locate an East India Company flotilla sent to reinforce St Helena with fresh troops. The Company retook the island in May 1673 without loss of life and reinforced it with 250 troops. The same year the Company petitioned a new Charter from Charles II of England and this granted the island free title as though it was a part of England “in the same manner as East Greenwich in the County of Kent”. Acknowledging that St Helena was a place where there was no trade, the Company was permitted to send from England any provisions free of Customs and to convey as many settlers as required.

In 1674 discontented settlers and troops seized Richard Keigwin (1673–1674), the next acting governor; it was only the lucky arrival of an East India Company fleet under the command of Captain William Basse that freed Keigwin. By 1675, the part-time recruitment of settlers in a Militia enabled the permanent garrison to be reduced to 50 troops. On leaving the University of Oxford, in 1676, Edmond Halley visited Saint Helena and set up an observatory with a 24-foot-long (7.3 m) aerial telescope and observed the positions of 341 stars in the Southern hemisphere.[12] His observation site is near St Mathew’s Church in Hutt’s Gate, in the Longwood district. The 680m high hill there is named for him and is called Halley’s Mount. Amongst the most significant taxes levied on imports was a requirement for all ships trading with Madagascar to deliver one slave. Slaves were also brought from Asia by incoming shipping. Thus, most slaves came from Madagascar and Asia rather than the African mainland. By 1679, the number of slaves had risen to about 80. An uprising by soldiers and planters in 1684 during the governorship of John Blackmore (1678–1689) led to the death of three mutineers in an attack on Fort James and the later execution of four others. The formation of the Grand Alliance and outbreak of war against France in 1689 meant that for several years ships from Asia avoided the island for fear of being attacked by French men-of-war. Soldiers at the end of their service thereby had restricted opportunities to obtain a passage back to Britain. Governor Joshua Johnson (1690–1693) also prevented soldiers smuggling themselves aboard ships by ordering all outgoing ships to leave only during daylight hours. This led to a mutiny in 1693 in which a group of mutineer soldiers seized a ship and made their escape, during the course of which Governor Johnson was killed. Meanwhile, savage punishment was meted out to slaves during this period, some being burnt alive and others starved to death. Rumours of an uprising by slaves in 1694 led to the gruesome execution of three slaves and cruel punishment of many others.

The clearance of the indigenous forest for the distillation of spirits, tanning and agricultural development began to lead to shortage of wood by the 1680s. The numbers of rats and goats had reached plague proportions by the 1690s, leading to the destruction of food crops and young tree shoots. Neither an increase on duty on the locally produced arrack nor a duty on all firewood helped reduce the deforestation whilst attempts to reforest the island by governor John Roberts (1708–1711) were not followed up by his immediate successors. The Great Wood, which once extended from Deadwood Plain to Prosperous Bay Plain, was reported in 1710 as not having a single tree left standing. An early mention of the problems of soil erosion was made in 1718 when a waterspout broke over Sandy Bay, on the southern coast. Against the background of this erosion, several years of drought and the general dependency of St Helena, in 1715 governor Isaac Pyke (1714–1719) made the serious suggestion to the Company that appreciable savings could be made by moving the population to Mauritius, evacuated by the French in 1710. However, with the outbreak of war with other European countries, the Company continued to subsidise the island because of its strategic location. An ordinance was passed in 1731 to preserve the woodlands through the reduction in the goat population. Despite the clear connection between deforestation and the increasing number of floods (in 1732, 1734, 1736, 1747, 1756 and 1787) the East India Company’s Court of Directors gave little support to efforts by governors to eradicate the goat problem. Rats were observed in 1731 building nests in trees two feet across, a visitor in 1717 commenting that the vast number of wild cats preferred to live off young partridges than the rats. An outbreak of plague in 1743 was attributed to the release of infected rats from ships arriving from India. By 1757, soldiers were employed in killing the wild cats.

William Dampier called into St Helena in 1691 at the end of his first of three circumnavigations of the world and stated Jamestown comprised 20–30 small houses built with rough stones furnished with mean furniture. These houses were only occupied when ships called at the island because their owners were all employed on their plantations further in the island. He described how women born on the island “very earnestly desired to be released from that Prison, having no other way to compass this but by marrying Seamen of Passengers that touch here”.

Following commercial rivalries between the original English East India Company and a New East India Company created in 1698, a new Company was formed in 1708 by amalgamation, and entitled the “United Company of Merchants of England, trading to the East Indies”. St Helena was then transferred to this new United East India Company. The same year, extensive work began to build the present Castle. Because of a lack of cement, mud was used as the mortar for many buildings, most of which had deteriorated into a state of ruin. In a search for lime on the island, a soldier in 1709 claimed to have discovered gold and silver deposits in Breakneck Valley. For a short period, it is believed that almost every able-bodied man was employed in prospecting for these precious metals. The short-lived Breakneck Valley Gold Rush ended with the results of an assay of the deposits in London, showing that they were iron pyrites.

A census in 1723 showed that out of a total population 1,110, some 610 were slaves. In 1731, a majority of tenant planters successfully petitioned governor Edward Byfield (1727–1731) for the reduction of the goat population. The next governor, Isaac Pyke (1731–1738), had a tyrannical reputation but successfully extended tree plantations, improved fortifications and transformed the garrison and militia into a reliable force for the first time. In 1733 Green Tipped Bourbon Coffee seeds were brought from the coffee port of Mocha in Yemen, on a Company ship The Houghton and were planted at various locations around the Island where the plants flourished, despite general neglect.

Robert Jenkins, of “Jenkins Ear” fame (governor 1740–1742) embarked on a programme of eliminating corruption and improving the defences. The island’s first hospital was built on its present site in 1742. Governor Charles Hutchinson (1747–1764) tackled the neglect of crops and livestock and also brought the laws of the island closer to those in England. Nevertheless, racial discrimination continued and it was not until 1787 that the black population were allowed to give evidence against whites. In 1758 three French warships were seen lying off the island in wait for the Company’s India fleet. In an inconclusive battle, these were engaged by warships from the Company’s China fleet. Nevil Maskelyne and Robert Waddington set up an observatory in 1761 to observe the transit of Venus, following a suggestion first made by Halley. In the event, observations were obscured by cloud. Most of the cattle were destroyed this year through an unidentified sickness.

Attempts by governor John Skottowe (1764–1782) to regularise the sale of arrack and punch led to some hostility and desertions by a number of troops who stole boats and were probably mostly lost at sea — however, at least one group of seven soldiers and a slave succeeded in escaping to Brazil in 1770. It was from about this date that the island began, for the first time, to enjoy a prolonged period of prosperity. The first Parish Church in Jamestown had been showing signs of decay for many years, and finally a new building was erected in 1774. St James’ is now the oldest Anglican church south of the Equator. Captain James Cook visited the island in 1775 on the final leg of his second circumnavigation of the world.

An order by governor Daniel Corneille (1782–1787) banning garrison troops and sailors from punch-taverns, only allowing them to drink at army canteens, led to a mutiny over Christmas 1787 when some 200 troops skirmished with loyal troops over a three-day period. Courts martial condemned 99 mutineers to death. These mutineers were then decimated; lots were drawn, with one in every ten being shot and executed.

Saul Solomon is believed to have arrived at the island about 1790, where he eventually formed the Solomon’s company, initially based at an emporium. Today the Rose and Crown shop occupies the building. Captain Bligh arrived at St Helena in 1792 during his second attempt to ship a cargo of breadfruit trees to Jamaica. That same year saw the importation of slaves made illegal.

In 1795 governor Robert Brooke (1787–1801) was alerted that the French had overrun the Netherlands, forcing the Dutch to become their allies. Some 411 troops were sent from the garrison to support General Sir James Craig in his successful capture of the Dutch colony at the Cape of Good Hope. Fortifications were improved and a new system of visual signalling introduced. Brooke had a battery built at Ladder Hill, and a tower to protect its rearward approaches at Knoll Hill.

As a result of a policy of recruiting time-expired soldiers calling at the island on their voyage home from India, the St Helena Regiment was built up to 1,000 men by 1800. At the same time, every able-bodied man joined the island’s militia.

The arrival of a fleet of ships in January 1807 caused an outbreak of measles. The outbreak led to the death of 102 “Blacks” (probably under-reported in church records), and 58 “whites” in the two months to May. With the importation of slaves no longer being legal, Governor Robert Patton (1802–1807) recommended that Company import Chinese labour to grow the rural workforce. The first Chinese labourers arrived in 1810, and the total number rose to about 600 by 1818. After 1836, many were allowed to stay on and their descendants became integrated into the population.

Governor Alexander Beatson (1808–1813) took action to reduce drunkenness by prohibiting the public sale of spirits and the importation of cheap Indian spirits. As in 1787, these actions resulted in a mutiny by about 250 troops in December 1811. After the mutineers surrendered to loyal troops, nine of the mutineers’ leaders were executed. Under the aegis of governor Mark Wilks (1813–1816) farming methods were improved, a rebuilding programme initiated, and the first public library opened. A census in 1814 showed the number of inhabitants was 3,507.

British rule 1815–1821, and Napoleon’s exile Napoleon at Saint Helena. Longwood House, St Helena: site of Napoleon’s captivity.

Main text: Napoleon I of France: Exile on Saint Helena

In 1815 the British government selected Saint Helena as the place of detention of Napoleon Bonaparte. He was brought to the island in October 1815 and lodged at Longwood, where he died on 5 May 1821.

During this period the island was strongly garrisoned by regular British regimental troops and by the local St Helena Regiment, with naval shipping circling the island. Agreement was reached that St Helena would remain in the East India Company’s possession, with the British government meeting additional costs arising from guarding Napoleon. The East India Company Governor, Sir Hudson Lowe (1816–1821), was appointed by and directly reported to Lord Bathurst, the Secretary for War and the Colonies, in London. Brisk business was enjoyed catering for the additional 2,000 troops and personnel on the island over the six-year period, although restrictions placed against ships landing during this period posed a challenge for local traders to import the necessary goods.

The 1817 census recorded 821 white inhabitants, a garrison of 820 men, 618 Chinese indentured labourers, 500 free blacks and 1,540 slaves. In 1818, whilst admitting that nowhere in the world did slavery exist in a milder form than on St Helena, Lowe initiated the first step in emancipating the slaves by persuading slave owners to give all slave children born after Christmas of that year their freedom once they had reached their late teens. Solomon Dickson & Taylor issued £147-worth of copper halfpenny tokens sometime before 1821 to enhance local trade.

British East India Company, 1821–1834

After Napoleon’s death the thousands of temporary visitors were soon withdrawn. The East India Company resumed full control of Saint Helena and life returned to the pre-1815 standards, the fall in population causing a sharp change in the economy. The next governors, Thomas Brooke (temporary governor, 1821–1823) and Alexander Walker (1823–1828), successfully brought the island through this post-Napoleonic period with the opening of a new farmer’s market in Jamestown, the foundation of an Agricultural and Horticultural Society and improvements in education. The importation of slaves was banned in 1792, but the phased emancipation of over 800 resident slaves did not take place until 1827, some six years before legislation to ban slavery in the colonies was passed by the British Parliament.[13] An abortive attempt was made to set up a whaling industry in 1830 (also in 1875). Following praise of St Helena’s coffee given by Napoleon during his exile on the island, the product enjoyed a brief popularity in Paris during the years after his death.

British rule, a Crown colony, 1834–1981

The Parliament of the United Kingdom passed the India Act in 1833, a provision of which transferred control of St Helena from the East India Company to the Crown with effect from 2 April 1834. In practice, the transfer did not take effect until 24 February 1836 when Major-General George Middlemore (1836–1842), the first governor appointed by the British government, arrived with 91st Regiment troops. He summarily dismissed St Helena Regiment and, following orders from London, embarked on a savage drive to cut administrative costs, dismissing most officers previously in the Company employ. This triggered the start of a long-term pattern whereby those who could afford to do so tended to leave the island for better fortunes and opportunities elsewhere. The population was to fall gradually from 6,150 in 1817 to less than 4,000 by 1890. Charles Darwin spent six days of observation on the island in 1836 during his return journey on HMS Beagle. Controversial[14] figure, Dr. James Barry, also arrived that year as principal medical officer (1836–1837). In addition to reorganising the hospital, Barry highlighted the heavy incidence of venereal diseases in the civilian population, blaming the government for the removal of the St Helena Regiment, which resulted in destitute females resorting to prostitution.

In 1838 agreement was reached with Sultan of Lahej to permit a coaling station at Aden, thereby allowing the journey time to the Far East (via the Mediterranean, the Alexandria to Cairo overland crossing and the Red Sea) to be roughly halved compared with the traditional South Atlantic route. This precursor to the effects of the Suez Canal (1869), coupled with the advent of steam shipping that was not reliant on trade winds led to a gradual reduction in the number of ships calling at St Helena and to a decline in its strategic importance to Britain and economic fortunes. The number of ships calling at the island fell from 1,100 in 1855; to 853 in 1869; to 603 in 1879 and to only 288 in 1889.

In 1839, London coffee merchants Wm Burnie & Co described St Helena coffee as being of “very superior quality and flavour”. In 1840 the British Government deployed a naval station to suppress the African slave trade. The squadron was based at St Helena and a Vice Admiralty Court was based at Jamestown to try the crews of the slave ships. Most of these were broken up and used for salvage. Between 1840 and 1849, 15,076 freed slaves, known as “Liberated Africans” were landed at Rupert’s Bay on the island, of which number over 5,000 were dead or died there.[15] The final number up to the 1870s when the depot was finally closed has not yet been accurately determined, but would be over 20,000. Surviving freed slaves lived at Lemon Valley – originally the quarantine area, later for women and children, Rupert’s and High Knoll, and only when numbers became too great were they sent to Cape Town and the British West Indies as labourers. About 500 remained on St Helena, where they were employed. In later years, some were sent to Sierra Leone.

It was also in 1840 that the British government acceded to a French request for Napoleon’s body to be returned to France in what became known as the retour des cendres. The body, in excellent state of preservation, was exhumed on 15 October 1840 and ceremonially handed over to the Prince de Joinville in the French ship La Belle Poule.

A European Regiment, called the St Helena Regiment, comprising five companies was formed in 1842 for the purpose of garrisoning the island. William A Thorpe, the founder of the Thorpe business, was born on the island the same year. There was another outbreak of measles in 1843 and it was noted that none of those who survived the 1807 outbreak contracted the disease a second time. The first Baptist minister arrived from Cape Town in 1845. The same year, St Helena coffee was sold in London at 1d per pound, making it the most expensive and exclusive in the world. In 1846, St James church was considerably repaired, a steeple replacing the old tower. The same year, huge waves, or “rollers”, hit the island causing 13 ships anchored off Jamestown bay to be wrecked. The foundation stone for St Paul’s country church, also known as “The Cathedral”, was laid in 1850. Following instructions from London to achieve economies, Governor Thomas Gore Brown (1851–1856) further reduced the civil establishment. He also tackled the problems of overpopulation of Jamestown posed by the restrictions of the valley terrain by establishing a village at Rupert’s Bay. A census in 1851 showed a total of 6,914 inhabitants living on the island. In 1859 the Diocese of St Helena was set up for St Helena, including Ascension Island and Tristan da Cunha (initially also including the Falkland Islands, Rio de Janeiro and other towns along the east coast of South America), the first Bishop of St Helena arriving on the island that year. Islanders later complained that succeeding governors were mainly retired senior military officers with an undynamic approach to the job. St John’s church was built in upper Jamestown in 1857, one motivation being to counter the levels of vice and prostitution at that end of the town.

The following year, the lands forming the sites of Napoleon’s burial and of his home at Longwood House were vested in Napoleon III and his heirs and a French representative or consul has lived on the island ever since, the French flag now flying over these areas. The title deeds of Briars Pavilion, where Napoleon lived during his earliest period of exile, were much later given to the French Government in 1959.

St Helena coffee grown on the Bamboo Hedge Estate at Sandy Bay won a premier award at the Great Exhibition at the Crystal Palace in 1851. Saul Solomon was buried at St Helena in 1853. The first postage stamp was issued for the island in 1856, the six-pence blue, marking the start of considerable philatelic interest in the island.

By the 1860s it was apparent that wood sourced from some condemned slave ships (possibly a Brazilian ship) from the 1840s were infested by termites (“white ants”). Eating their way through house timbers (also documents) the termites caused the collapse of a number of buildings and considerable economic damage over several decades. Extensive reconstruction made use of iron rails and termite-proof timbers. The termite problem persists to the present day. The cornerstone for St Matthew’s church at Hutt’s Gate was laid in 1861.

The withdrawal of the British naval station in 1864 and closure of the Liberated African Station ten years later (several hundred Africans were deported to Lagos and other places on the West African coast) resulted in a further deterioration in the economy. A small earthquake was recorded the same year. The gaol in Rupert’s Bay was destroyed and the Castle and Supreme Court were reconstructed in 1867. Cinchona plants were introduced in 1868 by Charles Elliot (1863–1870) with a view to exporting quinine but the experiment was abandoned by his successor Governor C. G. E. Patey (1870–1873), who also embarked on a programme of reducing the civil establishment. The latter action led to another phase of emigration from the island. An experiment in 1874 to produce flax from Phomium Tenax (New Zealand flax) failed (the cultivation of flax recommenced in 1907 and eventually became the island’s largest export). In 1871, the Royal Engineers constructed Jacob’s Ladder up the steep side of the valley from Jamestown to Knoll Mount Fort, with 700 steps, one step being covered over in later repairs. A census in 1881 showed 5,059 inhabitants lived on the island. Jonathan, claimed to be the world’s oldest tortoise, is thought to have arrived on the island in 1882.

An outbreak of measles in 1886 resulted in 113 cases and 8 deaths. Jamestown was lighted for the first time in 1888, the initial cost being born by the inhabitants. Dinuzulu kaCetshwayo, son of the Zulu king Cetshwayo, was exiled at St Helena between 1890 and 1897. Diphtheria broke out in 1887 and also in 1893 which, with an additional outbreak of whooping cough, led to the death of 31 children under 10. In 1890 a great fall of rock killed nine people in Jamestown, a fountain being erected in Main Street in their memory. A census in 1891 showed 4,116 inhabitants lived on the island. A submarine cable en route to Britain from Cape Town was landed in November 1899 and extended to Ascension by December and was operated by the Eastern Telegraph Company. For the next two years over six thousand Boer prisoners were imprisoned at Deadwood and Broadbottom. The population reached its all-time record of 9,850 in 1901. Although a number of prisoners died, being buried at Knollcombes, the islanders and Boers developed a relationship of mutual respect and trust, a few Boers choosing to remain on the island when the war ended in 1902. A severe outbreak of influenza in 1900 led to the death of 3.3% of the population, although it affected neither the Boer prisoners nor the troops guarding them. An outbreak of whooping cough in 1903 infected most children on the island, although only one died as a result.

The departure of the Boers and later removal of the remaining garrison in 1906 (with the disbandment of the St Helena Volunteers, this was the first time the island was left without a garrison) both impacted on the island economy, which was only slightly offset by growing philatelic sales. The successful reestablishment of the flax industry in 1907 did much to counter these problems, generating considerable income during the war years. Lace making was encouraged as an island-industry during the pre-war period, initiated by Emily Jackson in 1890 and a lace-making school was opened in 1908. Two men, known as the Prosperous Bay Murderers, were hanged in 1905. A fish-canning factory opened in 1909 but failed due to an unusual shortage of fish that year. S.S. Papanui, en route from Britain to Australia with emigrants, arrived in James Bay in 1911 on fire. The ship burned out and sank, but its 364 passengers and crew were rescued and looked after on the island. A census in 1911 showed the population had fallen from its peak in 1901 to only 3,520 inhabitants. Some 4,800 rats tails were presented to the Government in 1913, who paid a penny per tail.

Islanders were made aware of their vulnerability to naval attack, despite extensive fortifications, following a visit by a fleet of three German super-dreadnoughts in January 1914. With the outbreak of World War I, the defunct St Helena Volunteer Corps was re-established. Some 46 islanders gave their lives in World War I. The 1918 world pandemic of influenza bypassed St Helena. The self-proclaimed Sultan of Zanzibar, Seyyid Khalid Bin Barghash, was exiled in St Helena from 1917 to 1921 before being transferred to the Seychelles.

William A. Thorpe was killed in an accident in 1918, his business continuing to operate on the island to the present day. In 1920 the Norwegian ship Spangereid caught fire and sank at her mooring at James Bay, depositing quantities of coal on the beach below the wharf. A census in 1921 showed the islands population was 3,747. The first islanders left to work at Ascension Island in 1921, which was made a dependency of St Helena in 1922. Thomas R. Bruce (postmaster 1898–1928) was the first islander to design a postage stamp, the 1922–1937 George V ship-design—this significantly contributed to island revenues for several years. South African coinage became legal tender in 1923, reflecting the high level of trade with that country. There were nine deaths from whooping cough between 1920 and 1929 and 2,200 cases of measles in 1932. The first car, an Austin 7, was imported into the island in 1929. A census in 1931 showed a population of 3,995 (and a goat population of nearly 1,500). Cable and Wireless absorbed the Eastern Telegraph Company in 1934. Tristan da Cunha was made a dependency of St Helena in 1938.

Some six islanders gave their lives during World War II. The German battle cruiser Admiral Graf Spee was observed passing the island in 1939 and the British oil tanker Darkdale was torpedoed off Jamestown bay. As part of the Lend-Lease agreement, America built Wideawake airport on Ascension in 1942, but no military use was made of St Helena. As in the previous war, the island enjoyed increased revenues through the sale of flax.

There were 217 cases of poliomyelitis, including 11 deaths, in 1945. A census in 1946 showed 4,748 inhabitants lived on the island. In 1948 there were seven deaths from whooping cough and 77 hospital admissions from acute nephritis. In 1951, mumps attacked 90% of the population. Solomon’s became a limited company the same year. Flax prices continued to rise after the war, rising to their zenith in 1951. However, this St Helena staple industry fell into decline because of competition from synthetic fibres and also because the delivered price of the island’s flax was substantially higher than world prices. The decision by a major buyer, the British Post Office, to use synthetic fibres for their mailbags was a major blow, all of which contributed in the closure of the island’s flax mills in 1965. Many acres of land are still covered with flax plants. A census in 1956 showed the population had fallen only slightly, to 4,642. 1957 witnessed the arrival of three Bahrain princes as prisoners of Britain, who remained until released by a writ of habeas corpus in 1960. Another attempt to cooperate a fish cannery led to closure in 1957. From 1958, the Union Castle shipping line gradually reduced their service calls to the island. The same year, there were 36 cases of poliomyelitis. A census in 1966 showed a relatively unchanged population of 4,649 inhabitants.

A South African company (The South Atlantic Trading and Investment Corporation, SATIC) bought a majority share in Solomon and Company in 1968. Following several years of losses and to avoid the economic effects of a closure of the company, the St Helena government eventually bought a majority share in the company in 1974. In 1969 the first elections were held under the new constitution for twelve-member Legislative Council. By 1976, the population had grown slightly to 5,147 inhabitants. Based from Avonmouth, Curnow Shipping replaced the Union-Castle Line mailship service in 1977, using the RMS St Helena, a coastal passenger and cargo vessel that had been used between Vancouver and Alaska. Due to structural weakness, the spire of St James church was demolished in 1980. The endemic flowering shrub, the St Helena Ebony, believed to have been extinct for over a century, was discovered on the island in 1981.[16]

1981 to present

The British Nationality Act 1981 reclassified St Helena and the other crown colonies as British Dependent Territories. The islanders lost their status as ‘Citizens of the United Kingdom and Colonies’ (as defined in the British Nationality Act 1948) and were stripped of their right of abode in Britain. For the next 20 years, many could find only low-paid work with the island government and the only available employment overseas for the islanders was restricted to the Falkland Islands and Ascension Island, a period during which the island was often referred to as the “South Atlantic Alcatraz”.

The RMS St Helena was requisitioned in 1982 by the Ministry of Defence to help in support of the Falklands Conflict, and sailed south with the entire crew volunteering for duty. The ship was involved in supporting minesweeper operations but the volunteers were refused South Atlantic Medals. The Prince Andrew began his relationship with St Helena in 1984 with a visit to the island as a member of the armed forces.

The 1987 census showed that the island population stood at 5,644. The Development & Economic Planning Department, which still operates, was formed in 1988 to contribute to raising the living standards of the people of St Helena by planning and managing sustainable economic development through education, participation and planning, improving decision making by providing statistical information and by improving the safety and operation of the wharf and harbour operations. After decades of planning, the realisation of the three-tier school system began in 1988 under the aegis of the Head of Education, Basil George, when the Prince Andrew School was opened for all pupils of 12 onwards. Middle schools would take the 8- to 12-year-old children and the First schools from 5-year-olds.

The Prince Andrew launched the replacement RMS St Helena in 1989 at Aberdeen. The vessel was specially built for the Cardiff–Cape Town route, and featured a mixed cargo/passenger layout. At the same time, a shuttle service between St Helena and Ascension was planned, for the many Saint Helenians working there and on the Falklands. In 1995 the decision was made to base the ship from Cape Town and limit the number of trips to the UK to just four a year.

The 1988 St Helena Constitution took effect in 1989 and provided that the island would be governed by a Governor and Commander-in-Chief, and an Executive and Legislative Council. The Executive Council members would be elected for nomination by the elected members of the Legislative Council, and subsequently appointed by the Governor and could only be removed from office by the votes of a majority of the five members of the Legislative Council. The Legislative Council Members would be re-elected by the voters every four years. With few exceptions the Governor would be obliged to abide by the advice given to him by the Executive Council. Five Council Committees would be made up from the membership of the Legislative Council and civil servants so that at any time there would always be a majority of elected members. The five Chairpersons of these committees would comprise the elected membership of the Executive Council.

The Bishop’s Commission on Citizenship was established at the Fifteenth Session of Diocesan Synod in 1992 with the aim of restoring full citizenship of the islanders and restore the right of abode in the UK. Research began (Prof. T. Charlton) in 1993, two years before its introduction on the island and five years after, to measure the influence that television has on the behaviour of children in classrooms and school playgrounds. This concluded that the island children continued to be hard working and very well behaved and that family and community social controls were more important in shaping children’s behaviour than exposure to television. The Island of St Helena Coffee Company was founded in 1994 by David Henry. Using Green Tipped Bourbon Coffee plants imported in 1733, crops were grown on several sites, including the Bamboo Hedge Estate Sandy Bay estate used for the 1851 Great Exhibition entry. In 1997, the acute employment problem at St Helena was brought to the attention of the British public following reports in the tabloid press of a “riot” following an article in the Financial Times describing how the Governor, David Smallman (1995–1999), was jostled by a small crowd who believed he and the Foreign Office had rejected plans to build an airport on the island.

Hong Kong was handed back to China in 1997, and the same year the British government published a review of the Dependent Territories. This included a commitment to restore the pre-1981 status for citizenship. This was effected by the British Overseas Territories Act 2002, which restored full passports to the islanders, and renamed the Dependent Territories the British Overseas Territories. The St Helena National Trust was also formed the same year with the aim of promoting the island’s unique environmental and culture heritage. A full census in February 1998 showed the total population (including the RMS) was 5,157 persons.

In a vote held in January 2002, a majority of islanders (at home and abroad) voted in favour for an airport to be built. The island’s two-floor museum situated in a building near the base of Jacob’s Ladder was opened the same year and is operated by the St Helena Heritage Society. The Bank of St Helena, located next to the Post Office, commenced operations in 2004, inheriting the assets and accounts of the former St Helena Government Savings and the Ascension Island Savings Banks, both of which then ceased to exist. In April 2005 the British Government announced plans to construct an airport on Saint Helena to bolster the Island’s economy, and reduce the dependence on boats to supply the Island. Impregilo S.p.A. of Milan have been selected as the preferred tender to design, build and operate the airport, which is currently expected[17] to be open in 2012/13, although final UK ministerial approval was still not been given. The following December, DfID announced they and the “Treasury are in continuing discussions about issues of concern regarding access to St Helena. As a result, there will be a pause in negotiations over the St Helena airport contract”.[18] This is widely interpreted as meaning the project is in abeyance, probably for a number of years until the UK’s economy recovers. In March 2009, DfID announced the launch of a new consultation on options for access to the island.[19] In a parliamentary debate[20] in which DfID were accused of delaying tactics, the ministry accepted the conclusion in their 2005 Access document[21] but argued good fiscal management required this to be re-reviewed. In December 2008, the British Government decided not to go ahead with the long-promised airport. [22] If and when the airport eventually goes ahead, the Royal Mail ship will cease operations when flights begin.

A census held in February 2008 showed the population (including the RMS) had fallen to 4,255. In the first half of 2008, areas of the cliff above the wharf were stabilised from rock falls with netting at a cost of approximately £3 million. On 14 August, about 200 tons of rock fell from the west side of Jamestown severely damaging the Baptist chapel and surrounding buildings. Plans are in hand to net the most dangerous sections of the mountains either side of Jamestown over the period to 2015 at an estimated cost of about £15 million.[23]

Visit to Chijmes

A friend of mine, Gill W sent this description of Caldwell House along with a retrospective of Singapore, years past and today.

 The complex [CHIJMES] is big. The whole  building is built on three sides. Whether this was the whole house or whether the convent built onto it I’m not sure. Another part upstairs was a Chinese restaurant and yet another an Italian restaurant. It was the Italian part which I originally thought must have been Caldwell House, as it most resembles a house today. You’ll have to see it to decide for yourself.

Singapore as it is today bears no relation to the Singapore  we lived in. Orchard road still had trees on either side. There was only one high rise hotel in Orchard road. Raffles was rather shabby then. I loved it. The modern complex doesn’t appeal at all. Singapore river stank to high heaven and had shabby godowns on it. There were lots of Malay kampongs, awful slums, death houses for the Chinese ( it was considered unlucky for a Chinese to die at home ). Changi where we lived was a lovely village with lots of little shop houses selling everything. When Peter had the car I used to tahe a ‘pick up’ taxi into town. You’d flag down a taxi and ask for pick up which meant the driver could pick up other passengers. It saved on cost. I have been known to travel with a cage of hens on my lap.The classroom I taught in had an attap ( straw type) roof with flimsy doors and windows,  like the kampong houses.

The old folk hated the kampongs going and being rehoused in high rise flats. One taxi driver we had on a later visit said ‘It’s all f——ed up since you left’. However I don’t think the young Singaporeans see it like that. They are very proud of their modern city. You can also be fined for chewing gum. Looking at the gum smeared streets in our towns, no bad thing. At one time too they would insist on cutting  male  tourists hair before allowing them entry if it was considered too long. Last time we were there despite heavy fines we actually saw litter in the streets.

Whereas it was cheap when we lived there, in 2012, after spending two weeks in Vietnam and Cambodia we spent 5 days in Singapore and spent almost as much as the time in V and C. We have stayed in a whole range of hotels  in Singapore. 3* is not good, even if you  go for the best rooms. There is no doubt that Singapore has lost its charm for us. In modernising they have lost nearly all their old buildings. There are a few areas where the buildings look the same, but invariably they have been refurbished, so that is why I cherish the few that are left.

As  you can see I haven’t moved with the times. I like to see evidence of the past. That’s what I like about France. They keep the exteriors of their  old houses looking old and just modernise the interiors for comfortable living.

Chijmes Singapore

CHIJMESFrom Wikipedia, the free encyclopediaJump to: navigation, search

Coordinates: 1°17′42.5″N 103°51′06.5″E

CHIJMES (pronounced “chimes“, Chinese: 赞美广场) is a historic building complex in Singapore, which began life as a Catholic convent known as the Convent of the Holy Infant Jesus (CHIJ) (圣婴女修院) and convent quarters known as Caldwell House (古德威尔屋). The complex is located at Victoria Street in the Downtown Core, within the Central Area, Singapore’s central business district.

This complex of convent buildings has a Gothic-style chapel. It was used as a Catholic convent for 132 years, with Caldwell House constructed in 1840–1841 and the chapel in 1904. The chapel, now a multi-purpose hall, is known as CHIJMES Hall (赞美礼堂), and Caldwell House, now an art gallery, have both been gazetted as national monuments. The complex has been restored for commercial purposes as a dining, shopping and entertainment centre with ethnic restaurants, shops and a function hall, providing a backdrop for musicals, recitals, theatrical performances and weddings.Contents

History

The CHIJMES Hall, designed by Father Charles Benedict Nain as a chapel, was completed in 1904.

In October 1852, four French nuns arrived in Penang after having travelled overland from their native country in caravans. Reverend Mother Mathilde Raclot, leader of this group, was to become a key personality in the early history of the Convent of the Holy Infant Jesus on Victoria Street.

On 2 February 1854, the nuns sailed to Singapore from Penang on a mission to build a school for girls,[1][2] now known as CHIJ Secondary Toa Payoh. On 5 February 1854, they reached the island’s shores and took up residence at the first convent quarters, the now gazetted Caldwell House.

The nuns began taking in pupils only ten days after moving in, establishing the first CHIJ school in Singapore. Reverend Mother Mathilde staffed her school with sisters from the parent Society, the Institute of the Charitable Schools of the Holy Infant Jesus of Saint Maur. She dedicated 20 years of her life turning the convent into a school, an orphanage and refuge for women. Two classes were conducted, one for fee-paying students and another for orphans and the poor. Slowly, the nuns managed to restore the house into a simple but austere residence.

The Gate of Hope at CHIJMES

The first chapel of the Convent, which had been built around 1850, was in such a bad condition that it was necessary to build a new one. At the end of the 19th century, the Sisters started fund-raising by various means for the new chapel. The old one was becoming so dangerous that the Sisters decided to celebrate mass in Caldwell House.

Father Beurel acquired all the nine lots of land between Victoria Street and North Bridge Road, originally belonging to the Raffles Institution, that would constitute the entire convent complex. He presented them all to Reverend Mother Mathilde.

After being granted land in 1849 for the formation of Saint Joseph’s Institution, Father Charles Benedict Nain, a priest at Church of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, tried his luck once more for the building of a school for girls. He was refused but, undaunted and after returning re-inspired from his voyage to France in 1852, he was engaged as an architect for the construction of the chapel at the Convent of the Holy Infant Jesus and, on behalf of the Roman Catholic community, was in charge at the same time of the construction of the extension of the Saint Joseph Institution. The construction of the chapel started in 1901 and it was completed by 1904. Father Nain was highly involved in the worksite. He is the author of all the fine architectural details found in the chapel.

Much of the knowledge about the daily activities of the convent comes from seven volumes of diaries that were meticulously kept by convent scribes. These diaries cover over a hundred years of convent history, from 1851 to 1971; they are handwritten in French and entitled Annales de Singapour. From their observations, it is known that life within the convent walls was anything but sedate. Apart from daily chores, the nuns also had to organise and attend mass, grade papers, maintain the buildings and the grounds as well as raise money to support their activities.

Intricate floral and bird motifs on the Corinthian columns at CHIJMES Hall

Saint Nicholas Girls’ School was established in 1933. The school first held classes in the four old bungalows which formed the Hotel Van Wijk of the 1890s. It later moved into its new premises at the town convent in 1949 when the school was incorporated in the convent grounds. The school has since relocated to Ang Mo Kio in 1985.

The last religious service was held in the chapel on 3 November 1983, after which the chapel was deconsecrated and the town convent was closed. Careful restoration work has preserved much of the original structure of the convent and the chapel. After almost five and a half years of conservation and construction work, what was once the Convent of the Holy Infant Jesus and the seat of education for generations of Singapore girls, has been converted into a plaza of theme retail and food and beverage outlets interspersed with ample outdoor spaces and courtyards, cloistered walls and long, covered walkways. This haven in the city hub of Singapore, now known as CHIJMES, is a S$100 million project unmatched for its location and unique ambiance. It won a Merit Award in the UNESCO Asia Pacific Heritage Awards for Cultural Heritage Conservation in 2002.

The Convent of the Holy Infant Jesus Chapel and Caldwell House were gazetted as a national monument on 26 October 1990.Caldwell House

Caldwell House was purchased for the convent by Father Jean-Marie Beurel, a French missionary, who also established Saint Joseph’s Institution, the former site of which is now the Singapore Art Museum, and the Cathedral of the Good Shepherd, where he was the parish priest.

Caldwell House was designed by George Drumgoole Coleman, and is an example of his Neoclassical style. The bay on the upper floor became the sisters’ lounge.Architecture

The interior of CHIJMES Hall, showing the arched ceiling and stained glass windows

The Convent of the Holy Infant Jesus is distinctive for being an architecturally self-contained city block in Singapore. It contains groups of buildings of different styles and periods in order to maintain a diversity in aesthetics. They are formed around courtyards and other expansive spaces, landscaped and enclosed with walls which scale with its urban surroundings.

George Drumgoole Coleman’s house built in 1840–1841 for H.C. Caldwell, a magistrate’s clerk, is the oldest building in this enclave, which also includes the Gothic chapel and Saint Nicholas Girls’ School buildings. It was in the Caldwell House that the nuns did their sewing, reading and writing for so many years in the semicircular upstairs room whilst the first storey served as a parlour and visitors’ room. The early Gothic style chapel has finely detailed works, such as the plasterwork, the wall frescoes and stained glass panels.

The grand Anglo-French Gothic chapel was established with the support of the Catholic community in Singapore and beyond. Designed by Father Nain, the chapel is one of the most elaborate places of worship ever built in Singapore. The chapel was completed in 1904 and consecrated the following year.

A five-storey spire flanked by flying buttresses marks the entrance to the chapel. The 648 capitals on the columns of the chapel and its corridors each bear a unique impression of tropical flora and birds.

A few of the 648 capitals on the columns of the Chapel and a spiral staircase along a corridor

The various buildings are related by design with the intent to form exterior spaces which would be pleasing for its users, and were used for church school activities until November 1983 when the school vacated the premises. The spaces contained within the whole block have been adapted for public use, and form one of the major buildings in the Central Area.

Caldwell House

Henry Charles Caldwell was partially raised in Singapore and spent the better part of his working career there as an officer of the court. Below is an excerpt from the book “Singapore Street Names: A Study of Toponymics” by Victor R Savage and Brenda Yeoh describing his house and his work.

Part of [Henry Charles] Caldwell’s house forms the major front facade of the left side of the gothic church now known as CHIJMES, an acronym for ‘Church of the Holy Infant Jesus.’ The house was built in 1840 by George Coleman and was commissioned by H C Caldwell, the senior sworn clerk to the Magistrates. It was one of the last buildings that Coleman completed. Caldwell House is one of only two houses dating back to the 1840s/1850s that remain in the colonial district — the other being the old Parliament House that was built for the trader, John Maxwell, by G D Coleman in 1826-1827.

In 1854, a group of Sisters from the Holy Infant Jesus Order (also known as Les Dames de St Maur or CHIJMES) set up home in Caldwell’s house and opened a school within a short span of two weeks. By 1892 the convent had 360 pupils, 200 orphans, 30 poor women, 26 babies and over 40 Sisters. The convent also became an orphanage with babies abandoned at the doorsteps of Foundlings Gate (now preserved as the Gate of Hope). In 1983 the Town Convent (CHIJ) finally closed and shifted to Toa Payoh. Henry Charles Caldwell held several government positions as sworn clerk (1836-1839). senior sworn clerk (1839-1855), and registrar (1855-1856). He left Singapore in 1856 because of financial difficulties.

Footnote:  I conveyed this information to my genealogist friend Gill Wallis in England who has been helping (make that guiding) me with the Caldwell family search. She writes back:

“I couldn’t believe it when I clicked on Henry’s Singapore House. I cannot say I can remember the house exactly ( It is now an art gallery ) in Chijmes. But we always go to Chijmes when in Singapore ( last there in 2011 ). I’ve searched through all my old photos hoping I’d taken one but I didn’t. I have a book written by a young Singaporean girl who spent the war behind the convent walls of what is now called Chijmes. It is called A Cloistered War by Maisie Duncan. However I googled ” Photo of Caldwell House in Chijmes ” and you get several images which give you an idea of the architectural style. Chijmes stands for Church of the infant Jesus, I believe. Apart from the art gallery there are several restaurants and craft shops. The church has been turned into a wedding chapel. At least it was when we were there Gill”

Atalanta Voyage

This is the diary of John Fowler, age 15. He describes the daily events on board the ship Atalanta when in 1856, he, his parents and his two sisters voyaged to Melbourne, Australia. He was writing to his younger brother William who would later join the family. A very similar experience would have been had by the Lawrences who made the same journey seven years earlier in 1849. Many thanks to Joanne Hickey of Queensland Family Trees for making this diary available.

OUR VOYAGE TO THE  AUSTRALIAN COLONIES –
Being a diary of incidents from the beginning to the end of the voyage in the ship ‘Atalanta’ from Liverpool to Melbourne -BY J. FOWLER.

WEDNESDAY, 26 MARCH 1856.   Hauled out of Dock at 1/2 past 10 in the morning, the vessel lay all night at anchor in the river Mersey off Liverpool.   

THURSDAY, 27TH MARCH, started on our voyage, when at dinner many people sick for the first time (smooth sea) a lot of noise and confusion on deck and below, and going, every-body seemed in each other’s way, the sailors singing and weighing anchor, setting sails, the Government Inspectors came on board previous to our starting to exercise the crew and inspect the ship to see that all was right  (this was a mockery, as they merely came on board for a quarter of an hour and mustered the passengers to answer their names).

 

FRIDAY, MARCH 28,  rather rough, a great number of passengers sick, passed in sight of the Irish coast, rather foggy.

 

SATURDAY, MARCH 29, Still rougher, got out of channel and stood fair out to sea, We fell in with a Man of War in full sail, (3 Decker) a beautiful sight.

 

SUNDAY, MARCH 30.  A beautiful calm day, no wind, a very pretty and homely scene to see the passengers grouped about in little clusters, talking, reading and telling anecdotes and tales of their past lives.

 

MONDAY, MARCH 31.  Much sickness on board and a deal of rain, verry rough, passed a Dutch vesfel and signalled to her and found she was bound for Greenwich.

 

TUESDAY, APRIL 1st.  Verry wet and miserable morning, cleared up in the afternoon, wind against us but changed in the evening to the S.W. Over took a Dutch vesfel.  A verry rough night, water poured on some of the passengers beds.  Tins, pots, cans of treacle, pots of butter, dishes, plates, knives, forks and everything tumbling on our head’s while asleep in bed, finished the night by sleeping on the mess tables in the centre of the ship, coiled up in a blanket and counterpane.

 

WEDNESDAY, APRIL 2nd.  Still rougher day, wind in south west-going 12 1/2 knots an hour, a little rain,  a great many sick on board.

 

THURSDAY, 3rd APRIL.  Wet morning, but dry afternoon, ordered to hang our beds and bed clothing on deck to air.  Saw a ship  in the distance homeward bound.

 

FRIDAY, 4th APRIL.  Beautiful bright sunshine morning, all seemed happy and joyous, except the invalids.  Going in 11 knots an hour.

 

SATURDAY,5th APRIL.  D o-Do.

 

SUNDAY,6th APRIL.  Child died at two o’clock in the morning, buried same day, funeral service read by the doctor after which we had Divine service on the poop.

 

MONDAY,7th APRIL.  A verry fine day, a vesfel in sight in the distance homeward bound.  G. Ward is elected as school master today.

 

TUESDAY,8th, APRIL.  Do.  Vesfel still in sight about 10 miles off.

 

WEDNESDAY,9th, APRIL.  A beautiful fine day this morning, there was a general search through the ship of all berths and bags and persons of the passengers in consequence of the loss of a pocket book containing about 15/- in money and some papers of importance belonging to one of our single young men.

 

THURSDAY,10th, APRIL.  Fine, fine day, but little wind. (A row on deck between Scotty, a sailor, and the black cook ( More noise than work).

 

FRIDAY,11th APRIL.  A beautiful day, passed to fine large vessels, homeward bound, (at a distance).

 

SATURDAY,12th, APRIL.  Fine day again, nothing of importance occurred.

 

SUNDAY, 13th APRIL.  A bright morning.  Sailing past service, at 12 o’clock, thought more of that then of the service, being verry hungry.  Saw a whale and hundreds of flying fish, they are very curious things as they jump up out of the sea and fly some distance then plunge in again as soon as they are far enough away from their enemies.  Caught one of the fish on deck, it is about the size of a mackerell with the usual fins and a pair of beautiful wings of gills on each side of the body.

 

MONDAY, 14th APRIL.  Sailing well, a beautiful day.

 

TUESDAY, 15th APRIL.  Do. Do.  Same two sharks today playing round the vessel this evening, the sailors, who are a first rate jovial lot of fellows, had some rare fun by dressing themselves as soldiers with white jackets on and handpikes for guns, they mustered up a splendid military band…….. can’t read next line…(out of tune) 4 fife, (very harsh) and 2 fiddles and one of the sailors with a large tin Baking dish, they marched around the Deck 2  or 3 times saluting the Officers as they passed with the guns and playing the air  of See the Conquering Hero Comes amidst roars of laughter from all of board.

 

WEDNESDAY, 16th APRIL.  A fine warm day, going along nicely and about 20 miles from the line, a great many Porpoise fish play around the vessel in hundreds, and numbers of the beautiful little fish called the Portuguese Men of War sailing past us.

 

THURSDAY, 17th APRIL.  An exceedingly hot day, the passengers had all the boxes up out of the hold for a change of clothing, a rare scene of noise and confusion, calling out the names of the owners of the boxes, the sailors swearing at the confusion and mess about the ship, men, women and children running in all directions after their boxes all over the deck, the young children in their glory pulling, hauling and tumbling over the boxes.  Fathers swearing, mothers frightened to death that their Babes will  get smacked or get packed up in mistake with the clothes and set down in the hold.  Single women sorting out their finery, unpacking a duck of a bonnet.  In presently comes the order of the ‘ cord up the boxes’, as a squall is coming on.  Then see the confusion and fun, everybody hard at it.  Packing up as fast as they can, the husband swearing, the wife scolding and screaming after their young wretch of a boy, who has bolted down the hatchway with his best Sunday toggery and is slyly putting it on over his other clothes in the berth, much to the dismay and horror of his mother, who is starting off in pursuit is looking everywhere but in the right place for the young villain.  Then there is the shrill voice of some young girl begging of you to cord up her box, has the dear things inside, might get spoiled if should we ship a sea.  A little further off is the picture of dispair on the countenance of a young lady, who has unfortunately got the end of her box stove through and who  is the verry picture of dispair, of grief,  is looking at her beautiful bonnet and dress, which is entirely spoiled.

 

FRIDAY, 18th APRIL.  Still hotter weather and a verry large shark following in our wake at the stern of the vessel, a disturbance about pumping the water from the ship use, the Doctor stopped all the younger man’s rations untill they pumped they said it was not fair that they should do all the work for the married men, but did not object to pump for the women, a rare lark, the women nobly offered to go on half provisions and give us the other half, 3 cheers for the girls and one cheer with groans for the doctor and Captain.

 

SATURDAY, 19th APRIL.  Verry fine and hot, this is the most eventful day of the voyage.  First of all, a young woman died who was only married on the day before she came on board, and who had left her home unknown to any of her friends.  Next was when C. Ward was bathing on the end of a rope he let the rope slip and was plunged headlong into the sea, he being a good swimmer, he swam to the rope which hung  by the ship’s side and pulled himself up, allright, without being hurt.  The next scene was the funeral of the young woman who died thismorning, the scene was most impressive, to see the deck of the emigrant Vessel filled with all the passengers on a beautiful moonlight night, time 1/2 past 10 at night, the silver beams of the moon reflecting it’s bright rays on all around, nothing to be heard but the splashing of the waves against the sides of the vesfel. About the centre of the vesfel stands the 1st and 3rd mate holding half over the bullwarks the lifeless body of the young creature who perished thus so early in life. The body is sown up in a shroud and a cannonball placed at her feet and is lying on the wood bier covered with the colours of old England.  Soon after the Captain and doctor are seen issuing from the cabin door attended by the constable, carrying lamps and prayer books. Upon their arrival the passengers gather around and the doctor then commences reading the beautiful but impressive Prayer for the Dead, after it is read about half through a sudden plunge was heard and the gentle being, who but a few short weeks before was life and all joyousness, had passed away from us and gone to that bourne from whence no traveller can return.

 

SUNDAY, 20th APRIL.  The girls and women came out in their bright summer clothing, but it turned out to be a wet day, much to the annoyance of the bits of muslin and light cotton gowns.

 

MONDAY, 21st APRIL.  A rare day of fun and frolic, this morning upon the passengers awaking and glancing round, the first thing they beheld was all their bedfellows with their faces blackened, everybody’s face being tattooed smeared all over with grease and soot, the roars of laughter as each one woke up and beheld their bedfellows with his face in that state, was deafening, the more so as he did not give it a thought for a moment to see whether his own as the same, but upon discovering his own to be the same the fun was tremendous, each one laughing at the other to see what pretty devils they looked.  Great preparations on deck to receive old Neptune and his band, who shortly after arrived amidst thunders of aplause, attended by as mottly a group of pirates and water nymphs as you would ever wish to set eyes on.  The scene at this moment is first rate, there is a large sail along the deck, 1/2 full of sea water, and suspended over it is a tub, cut to represent an armchair, around this the seamen are standing awaiting the orders of Old Father Neptune, who is seated on his throne (a cannon block on four wheels) holding in one hand to his Trident of Office and in the other a bottle of rum, which he continually plays to his lips much to the annoyance of the l loving patron of his life – Mrs Neptune – who keeps gently nudging his elbow to give her a drop.  The costume of this lady is truly sublime and in pure taste for the latest fashion, imagine, a fair creature as black as ink and about 6 ft. 2in. high, dressed in a down made of sail cloth and highly ornamented with seaweed, drapery hanging in graceful flounces around her bounteous form, her hair is purely flaxen, being made of toe and hanging in graceful curls bounteous form.  You must not believe that we saw all this, but it was only what the sailors said was witnessed on board most ships when they cross the line.

 

TUESDAY, 22nd APRIL.  A wet day, but a verry hot, ship moving slowly.  A laughable thing occurred on deck this day.  One of the Irish passengers named Jack Sullivan was standing on the top of a grease tub to reach a rope and fell bang in, he came out a pretty beauty beauty smothered in grease and fat.  More fun at night, a continuation of the blackening of faces and having found some of the passengers asleep on the deck we tied a rope around their legs and pulled  them all around  the ship, almost freightened them out of their wits.

 

WEDNESDAY, 23rd APRIL. Verry fine weather and good breeze, some thousands of porpoise fish playing around the vesfel, they appear to be about 4 or 5 ft. long. Saw a vessel homeward bound from Rio de Janero and a very large whale it seemed about 40 feet long.  Child died and thrown overboard during the day. Two men put in irons for stealing brandy but let out again as soon as they were sober.

 

THURSDAY, 24th APRIL. Another child died at 1/2 past 7. …N.B….. It is a remarkable fact that all the children on board seem to gradually get thinner and pine away and die, more skeletons, it is really shocking to see the poor little things pine away and die in this manner, this is the 4th child died within this last 2 days, in fact it is getting so common we think nothing of it.

 

FRIDAY, 25th APRIL.  Weather rough and stormy, ship rolling dreadfully upsetting all our breakfast in our laps, sending everything flying about our heads.

 

SATURDAY, 26th APRIL. Wet and stormy like yesterday, while waiting at the galley for our dinner a wave came over and nearly washed us all away, dinner and all and all the sea washed over the decks about 2 ft. deep in water and we had almost water enough to have to swim for our meat.

 

SUNDAY, 27th APRIL. Weather wet and stormy. A large ship  seen this evening but too far away to speak with her.

 

MONDAY, 28th APRIL. Weather rough, lots of flying fish seen today and some very  large birds following us. Going 13 knots.

 

TUESDAY, 29th APRIL.  Still rough and lots of porpoises  playing about the vesfel.  One  main sheet nearly blown away today.

 

WEDNESDAY, 30th, APRIL.  Weather rough and heavy squalls of wind and rain.

 

THURSDAY, MAY 1st.  Heavy breeze  blowing but fine sunshiney day.  There was a pretty but strange sight today, about nine o’clock in the morning there was a cry of land oh!  And upon  going on deck, we saw, at about 20 of 25 miles off, a small speck upon the ocean like a cloud and soon afterwards there were several descriptions of birds seen flying around the ship, some verry beautifully marked and verry large, measuring 8 or 9 ft.  from tip to very of wings and about 10 flock, we came within 2 or 3 miles of it and it proved to be one of the Trinidad Islands, it seemed in a huge mass of barren rocks about 30 miles in circumference with here and there a small speck of green pasture.  It was covered with birds, some verry beautiful in plumage, I should dearly like to have gone ashore there.

 

FRIDAY, MAY 2nd.  Fine weather, we have been going this last week 13 or 14 knots an hour.

 

SATURDAY, MAY 3rd.  Verry calm.  A few birds still following us and another child died on board again today.

 

SUNDAY, MAY 4th.  Another child this morning, heavy showers.  A whale and several large birds seen today and a white glass bottle seen floating about in the sea.

 

MONDAY, MAY 5th.  Fine and calm.  Another child died.

 

TUESDAY, MAY 6th.  Rough sea.  Ship rolling verry much, pitching and tossing everrything upside down with a heavy sea washing over her

 

WEDNESDAY, MAY 7th.  Heavy breeze blowing, large birds still following us.

 

THURSDAY, MAY 8th.  Wet and heavy breeze.

 

FRIDAY, MAY 9th.  Do.  And stormy with a large ship in sight.  Going 13 knots.

 

SATURDAY, MAY 10th.  Do.  Do.  The mate caught three large birds today, the first was a cape hen measuring 4 ft. from the tip of each wing and similar to a duck colour, dark brown.  The second bird was smaller and quite black.  The last was a large Albatross, 9 ft from tip to tip of wings and the colour of a swan and a very noble bird.

 

SUNDAY, MAY 11th.  Find breeze blowing, rolling verry much and a lot of birds in sight.

 

MONDAY, MAY 12th.  All the boxes up again today for a change of clothing repetition of the same scenes before, much fun and laughter on board all day.

 

TUESDAY, MAY 13th.  Rough weather, rolling dreadfully, the usual upsetting of everybody and everything including hot coffee and soup all over us at dinner time.

 

WEDNESDAY, MAY 14th.  Verry rough, the same scene as yesterday, lots of whales seen and a few birds following, some of the whales kept starting backwards and forwards under the ship, they were about 40 feet long.

 

THURSDAY, MAY 15th.  Rough and fair breeze, lots of whales.

 

FRIDAY, MAY 16th.  Thousands of Porpoises seen playing around the vesfel this morning.

 

SATURDAY, MAY 17th.  Heavy storm, the way it has about 50 ft. high and the sea washing over the decks.  This is a splendid sight, the passengers could neither walk nor stand on the decks or lie comfortable in their beds.  Many of them asked us if there was any danger, which made me laugh to see the long faces they pulled.

 

SUNDAY, MAY 18th.  Little calmer but verry rough still.

 

MONDAY, MAY 19th.  Verry rough still and the usual tumbling and upsetting of things.  A child died thismorning.

 

WEDNESDAY, MAY 21st.  Fine day and rough.

 

THURSDAY, MAY 22nd.  Another child died, they generally throw them overboard a few hours after they die.

 

FRIDAY, MAY 23rd.  Weather rough.  2 children died.

 

SATURDAY, MAY 24th.  Heavy sea.  Then another child died.

 

SUNDAY, MAY 25th.  Weather verry rough.

 

MONDAY, MAY 26th.  A Little calmer but stiff breeze.

 

WEDNESDAY, MAY 28th.  Dance on deck by moonlight.

 

THURSDAY, MAY 29th.  Rather rough, lots of tumbling about as usual.  We opened a concert this evening at half past 6 in the evening, our opening was the ‘ Sailors are Jolly Good Fellows’; next ‘ Old King Cole’,’ Tally Ho’ and 30 or 40 other good songs.

 

SATURDAY, MAY 31st.  Rather rough, our usual concert in the evening, we carry on these concerts everry night.

 

SUNDAY, JUNE 1st.  Verry rough and several large birds following us, a good stiff breeze, our main top sail yard nearly carried at seven o’clock this morning during a heavy gale, the yard arm snapped in two about 2 ft. from the centre and came tumbling down with an awful crash.

 

TUESDAY, JUNE 3rd.  Good breeze.  Child born and died shortly afterwards. 

 

WEDNESDAY, JUNE 4th.  Ship rolling.  Charles Frewman,  one of the crew fell and broke his collar bone and dislocated  his shoulder.

 

THURSDAY, JUNE 5th.  Rough weather.  Another child born and is expected to do well.

 

SATURDAY, JUNE 7th.  A dead calm, no wind.

 

SUNDAY, JUNE 8th.  Calm and good breeze, sailing 13 knots an hour.

 

SATURDAY, JUNE 14th.  At 9 o’clock in the morning there was a cry of land ho! ahead and soon afterwards we saw several bunches of seaweed, pieces of wood etc, floating on the water.  About 12 o’clock. we could see the Cape Otway lighthouse and the hills behind covered with trees.  Dear Brother, just imagine the joy and pleasure that was felt by all on board when we knew that we had reached a land of promise, the land that was long looked for by all on board.  We lay beating about a few miles off land all that night, during the evening there was a steamer passed within a few yards of us, there were a great many on deck to welcome the strange messenger.

 

SUNDAY, JUNE 15TH. Sunday morning as soon as it was light we found ourselves in a large bay with land on both sides of us, soon afterwards we set more sail and steered right up the bay.  At 2 o’clock we fell in with a pilot boat that took   us in. We had to pass through a narrow opening where  the Government Doctor and Inspector came on board and enquired whether we had any disease on board but we had none for if we had we would have to lie quarantine for a month or more, as we passed in the bay we saw an emigrant ship lying in quarantine, the pilot said that ship had been there for 5 months and that she had cholera on board and she was 4 months coming out.
We dropped the anchors at 2 o’clock this afternoon being only 78 days on our passage, this is considered verry fair, as most ships are above 100 days we beat the mail ship Shalmanar, which left Liverpool 4 days before us and which arrived here 7 days after, there was a bet between our Captain and the Captain of the Shalmanar, which could get there first.

MONDAY, JUNE 16TH. Monday we lay in the harbour about 2 miles of Williams town, we caught at see  Melbourne about 10 miles off up the river.  If the Government Inspectors came on board today to see how many passages there were.  We had soft bread this morning (what a treat) dear brother, just imagine what a treat it was to have soft bread and fresh meat again after being without for near 3 months.  Happened to get the chance to stand on the steps by the side of the vessel to pass the bread up, you may well think how much we eat while about this work, I am most sure myself that I eat a 4 pound loaf and then wanted more.

TUESDAY, JUNE 17TH. Tuesday lay in the harbour eating and drinking all day long.  Upon awakening thismorning we were told that nearly all the crew had left the ship, that they had in the night tied the cabin and the mates cabin doors, and taken one of the lifeboats and gone ashore.  As soon as they had landed they took their clothes, thrown the paddles and rudder overboard and left the boat to sink or swim.  The boat was afterwards found ashore on the beach by the police, 4 of the sailors have since been caught and sentenced to 6 weeks imprisionment.

 

WEDNESDAY, JUNE 18TH. Wednesday we are all busy thismorning, packing and rigging up in the best style to go ashore.  Just imagine the bustle and confusion on deck and below, men, women and children running about deck to find their boxes, some busily employed in packing up their beds and bedding, others dressing up in the best style, until at last we see the steam tug and lighter come to take us up with river, at about 10 o’clock we began to put the luggage on board and at 3 o’clock in the afternoon we left the vessel, the single women being on board the steam tug and the married people, single men, luggage etc on board the lighter.  When we left we gave 3 hearty good cheers which made the harbour ring. Going up the river the first thing that we noticed was the canvas tents, the tea plant, soon after this we came to where there was a few houses and we were astonished to see the mud, and the men wearing boots up to their thighs.  In a few minutes we came to the place for landing our next game was to see which could get ashore first after being away from it so long.  I was one of the 3 first that gave a leap, for we had to jump about 6 feet, we were then astonished to see what mud we had to go through,  every step being over our shoes.  We had to walk about three quarters of a mile to the depot, when we came there we were astonished to find what a pigstye it was, it was only built one story high, being built of thin raps off wood,  the roof being made of the same.  You may well suppose what a place it was, when I say that we could lie in our beds and count the stars through the roof or see the grasshoppers through the sides.  One good thing was that we got plenty to eat while we were there.  We left the depot on Monday, June 23rd.  But it was only going from one wooden house to another.

Father has taken a house in Collingwood, about half a mile from the City of Melbourne, we were surprised at first to see so many houses built of wood with the roof of the same material.  Our house is about as long as grandfather’s kitchen, being divided in the middle by a canvas petition the sides were also of canvas nicely covered with paper, the fireplace is just like they are at Coombe, in which they burn wood because coals are verrry dear here and we can buy wood brought to the door for One Pound a ton.

 

Well our next thing was today to get work.  We went to look a cooperage and the foreman said that he would give us a job.  Well the next morning we went out about 2 miles to put up a house for this man, but the road was verry muddy, every step being verry near up to the knees, we soon began to build our wooden house, our first thing was to put down a dozen piles for our house to stand upon, the place being up to knees in mud and water.  You would laugh if you were only to see the place that our master lived in, it being worse than the stables at Coombe, you may well think what a place it was when I say that it was only a tent made of rags and canvas old blankets, counterpanes, shirts, dresses etc. etc. all patched up together.  You would hardly think that some of the places here are fit for pigs much more than human beings.
We left this works on Saturday, 29th, and had work to go to in a cooperage.

 

Today, July 14th.  The wages here are verry good, farm labourers get 10 shillings per day for only working 8 hours, stonemasons, carpenters and other trades get from 12 to 15 shillings per day.  People here can live as cheap as they can at home, meat being only from 2 1/2d. to 3 pence per lb., cabbage etc. are verry dear being from 4 to 6 pence each, bread and flour is as cheap here as at home, but butter is 1/6 to 2 shillings and 2/9 per lb.
The country as far as we have yet seen is verry good,the land being verry rich, Melbourne is a pretty town or city as they call it here, it is a great deal larger than Exeter.  We have had some verry heavy rain here lately, it has hindered the trade verry much.  They says that the road to the  diggings is impassable, the mud being in some places for 5 or 6 feet deep.  We read in the papers sometimes of men getting up to the neck in mud.

Shap Ng Tsai

Daniel Caldwell leads a squadron of British Navy gunboats to the den of the infamous pirate Shap ng tsai. Shap ng tsai and his pirates are killed and their fleet of junks destroyed.

China Extracts

Destruction of the Piratical Squadron of Shap-ng-tsai

From the China Mail, November 1.Diplomatic Department.Government Notification.

His Excellency her Majesty’s Plenipotentiary, &c., &c., has much satisfaction in publishing for general information the accompanying official communication, dated, ” Cho-keum. Cochin-China. 23rd October, 1849, ; from Commander John C. Dalrymple Hay, to the address of His Excellency Rear Admiral Sir Francis A. Collier, C.B., K.C.H, Commander-in-Chief, reporting the success which has attended the operations of the Columbine, Fury, and Phlegethon, aided by a party of officers and men of Her Majesty’s ship Hastings, at the entrance of the Tonquin River, against the piratical squadron under the command of the notorious Shap-ing-tsai.

The following translation of an official communication, addressed by the Chinese Naval Commander-in-Chief, chief on the Hai-nan Station, to his Excellency her Majesty’s Plenipotentiary is likewise published for the information of the public.

By order,A. R. Johnston.Victoria, Hongkong, 1st November, 1849.

Her Majesty’s sloop Columbine, Cho-keum,

Cochin-China, 23rd October, 1849.

Sir,I have the satisfaction to report to your Excellency the great success of the expedition you did me the honour to place under my command. Fifty-eight piratical vessels, mounting about 1200 guns, and with crews of 3000 men, have been totally destroyed by fire, and by the blessing of God, without the loss of one life of the officers and men under my orders.

 After leaving Hongkong, on the 8th October, I searched the harbours of Concock, Sattei, St. John’s. Mong, Mamee, Sungyne, and Tienpak, and proceeded to Nowchon. From information received there, I determined to proceed to Holbow in Hainan, inside the shoals, and through the Junk passage, for I found good pilots, and junks with 14 feet draught going through, and we drew little more than fifteen feet ; moreover Shap-ng-tsai had boasted be would go where English ships dared not follow him. This vaunt I determined to belie.

We reached Hoi-how on the 13th, and found the Governor-General (Ho), whom I visited at the capital, in great fear of the pirates, and with a most friendly feeling to the English nation. He immediately ordered a Mandarin named Wong, to proceed with me, taking with him eight war junks, and I gave him a passage, to prevent delay, on board the Fury. On the 16th, we reached Chookshan, which the pirate fleet had left five days before, and we found the same sad story of towns destroyed, men murdered, and women taken away, that mark his track along the coast.

On Thursday, the 18th, we fell in with one of his look out vessels, which, having got into shallow water was overtaken by the Phlegethon, and destroyed by her boats under the command of Mr. Simpson, first officer. On the 19th. we reached Hoonong his reported haunt, and found he had gone about twelve miles farther, and I feared we had lost him, but that invaluable officer, Mr. Daniel R. Caldwell, impressed me so strongly with the correctness of his information, that I decided on a reconnaissance in the Phlegethon in spite of our shortness of fuel ; and proceeding into Chokeum for that purpose, on Saturday morning, the 24th, saw thirty-seven of the fleet underweigh.

From seven until four o’clock p.m , like terriers at a rat hole, we hunted for the channel. Then a pilot managed to escape from the shore, I proceeded in the Phlegethon, with Fury astern, Columbine in tow, over the bar fourteen feet (mud), and at forty minutes past four, had the pleasure of finding all the ships warmly engaged. At five minutes past five, Shap-ng-tsai’s junk blew up with a tremendous crash, and at forty minutes past five they had ceased firing.

Before eight o’clock, twenty-seven were in flames, and the squadron in position to blockade the river. On the 21st October, the steamers and boats destroyed twenty-four more ; and nine of them gave Lieutenant George Hancock, in a paddle box boat of the Fury, assisted by Captain Moore. R.M., and Mr. Close, Acting Mate, with Mr. Lean, an opportunity of distinguishing himself. Two large junks turned to bay to defend the retreat of the rest, but Mr. Hancock so handled his boat and her gun, that after an hour and twenty minutes he had beaten them from their guns, and carried them by boarding without loss, and then pursued and destroyed the other seven. Mr. Hancock’s boldness in attacking, and correct judgment in managing this affair, are worthy of the highest praise ; and Captain Moore, R.M., Mr. N. N. C. Leao, a Brazilian Lieutenant, and Mr. F. A. Close, Acting Mate, gave him the greatest assistance.

On Monday, the 22nd I proceeded in the Phlegethon and boats to destroy all that were left. We found that the mandarins had destroyed four, and we finished two others. The low flat islands at the mouth of the river were at times covered with men deserted from the junks, yet afraid of the Cochin Chinese, who had assembled in great numbers to attack them. The ships’ boats and small arm men harrassed and destroyed many by constant fire of shell and grape, whilst the Cochin Chinese destroyed and captured the rest. From the best information it appears that the fleet consisted of sixty-four vessels of war, which may be classed as follows :

[the author lists the specifics of the destroyed fleet]

Of these, two small of the 3rd class, and four of the 4th class have escaped with Shap-ng-tsai, but without much ammunition ; and the mandarin assures me he will shortly destroy him – now an easy prey. He took with him about 400 men – so that 1700 having been killed, about 1000 more remain to be finished by the Cochin Chinese, who have already sent some prisoners to the mandarins.

 
I shall now proceed to Hongkong with all despatch. I have the pleasure of mentioning the exceeding good conduct of the officers and men during these laborious and hazardous operations. Their unanimity, willingness and cheerfulness, have made it a most pleasant service, and no plunder, rapine or misconduct, has tarnished their honour. Major-General Wong, the mandarin, proved himself a gallant, active, and efficient ally, and I trust his own Government may reward him for his good services.

To have Commander Wilcox with me, is, I feel, to have success. As a friend and an officer he is unequalled, and his ship is in such good order that I believe there is nothing be could not do. His judgement and gallantry are on an equal footing. Mr. Niblett, of the Phlegethon, has handled his ship in a bold and determined manner, and has given me every assistance. As I was frequently obliged to be in the steamer, the command of this sloop has devolved upon Lieutenant J. H. I Bridges, senior Lieutenant, and he conducted her in action on the 20th with much ability. Lieutenant Darnell, senior of the Fury, in command of her boats. has also rendered good service. Captain Moose, of the Hastings, marines, has assisted me most materially in command of that body. Lieutenant Hancock and Mr. Chambers, Acting Mate, in command of the respective detachments of Hasting’s men, have given me much satisfaction: and Mr. Rathbone, Midshipman of the Fury, has brought himself into notice for his zeal. I have also to notice the name of Mr. Algernon Wootton, Midshipman, a most promising young officer, who has acted as my Aide-de-Camp, and been very useful on every occasion.


I have the honour to enclose a list of the officers employed in the boats, who I have no doubt, would equally have distinguished themselves if they had had the opportunity.
I enclose a journal of my proceedings since leaving Hongkong, together with some hydrographical remarks, compiled by Mr. Thomas Kerr, acting master of the sloop, which will, I trust, be of service to commerce and navigation in the Gulf of Tonquin, hitherto so little known. Mr. Kerr, during all this very hazardous navigation, has proved himself a careful and judicious officer.

Mr. D. R. Caldwell, of the police force, has again proved his talent as a linguist, his intimate knowledge of the Chinese character, and the thorough correctness of his information. To him, in a great measure, our success is to be attributed.

Mr. Soames, master of the Hongkong Company’s steam vessel Canton, did his work well as pilot, as far as he was acquainted with the coast.

I have the honour to be. Sir,


Your most obedient humble servant,


John C. Dalrymple Hay,
Commander.

 His Excellency Rear AdmiralSir Francis A. Collier C.B.. K.C.H.,Commander-in. Chief, &c., &c, &c.
SG & SGTL 16 Feb 1850 ; p 50-1.

From:
http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.ancestry.com/~pbtyc/Gazette/Campaigns_etc/Pirates_Of_Shap-ng-tsai.html

Dear Rosie: Spring

Sydney tells us he is feeling settled in Tokyo and enjoying his life there, worries about Rose Mary’s ‘fits of depression,’ expresses his distain for Japanese music, records the excitement of a visiting American aviator, praises the spring weather and Japanese blossoms, and laments that all the servants are making him lazy. The end of the letter is missing.


The Tokyo Hotel
Atago hill Park
3 Apr 1911

I was hoping to have been able to send you this letter  by today’s mail but unfortunately put it off till too late and it must therefore go by the usual Wednesday’s mail

I got two letters from you dearest on Saturday, one dated the 17th Feb which came via America and the other my birthday letter wishing me all the good things. Many, many thanks darling and I only wish you were here to give me a real birthday kiss!

I am so sorry to hear you are still having fits of depression, but you must ‘buck up’ and look forward to coming out to me in a few months. I am going to have a chat with Wheeler tis week about it. And then I shall write to Mr. Potter. I would of course rather wait a month or two before mentioning it to the letter but as you are not keeping so well as I had hoped you would I shall write sooner than I had intended. In the meantime, my precious darling, have patience, and we will see about getting you out in August or September! Anyway, before the winter commenced. As a matter of fact, even if you come then, your time will be fully occupied, I expect, getting things ready. And in that, you will have to get the aunts to advise you.

There is not much news to tell you of. Last Saturday I went to a Japanese music hall and of all the piffle you ever saw in your life, that takes the family biscuit.The music consists of a pair of clappers! A rotten tin horn!! with the occasional use of the drum while a man at the side is continually shouting with a voice like a sawmill in distress!! Preserve me from any more of them! That’s all I say!

Yesterday was Sunday and there was a big meeting at a place called Meforu about 5 miles from Tokyo to see an American Aviator. Of course, ‘everybody’ was there. I was there. It was a lovely day and hardly a breath of wind, the flying therefore was excellent.

Today is a public holiday but unfortunately it has rained all day! Most disappointing as there was a great deal of excitement over the opening of a new bridge over the river about 1 1/2 miles from here.

Yesterday, several of us went for a walk before tiffin round Akasaka, one of the best parts of Tokyo. We are thinking of leaving the hotel to take a house as one or two of the boys are dissatisfied with the attention here. As a matter of fact, hotel life gets a bit monotonous after a while.

The cherry blossom is now quite out, and some of the roads where there are long avenues of these trees, are simply lovely! I do so wish you were here to see them. You would be charmed! These blossoms only last about ten days, but then, of course, there are other trees to follow. In fact, it seems to me that every tree you see has a blossom on it or will have soon. You can imagine how lovely they will look in the summer time.

The weather’s still chilly and we have not yet done with fires as April has many cold days and one has to be careful not to catch cold but on the whole the climate is certainly better than England.

I wonder how you will like Tokyo? I didn’t at first but now that the weather is better and I’ve been out and seen different parts of it I’ve changed my mind and really getting to quite to like it. Nevertheless, one has to give up a great deal of the pleasures of ‘home’ with nothing much to compensate you for those losses. However, altho’ I have plenty to do at the office, life on the whole is easier than it is at home. The only thing is one gets awfully lazy, servants wait on you everywhere and I, being no different to the rest, take full advantage of it.

I am so glad to hear Mr. Potter has been so kind to you. He really is a good sort and I should certainly take the opportunity if you can to see him one day very soon and tell him how you feel about staying away from me. He will help you I know and push things forward for us. I shall in all probability be writing him this week. You ought therefore to see him about the same time! And then if you can get anything definite from him set about selling up! All the ‘furniture’ may go except the piano. I will advise you later of this, but you must of course keep all the linen, plate and all small stuff of any value that can be packed in cases. But don’t trouble about crockery!! We can buy it here quite cheaply.

(missing page or pages)

Dear Rosie: Illness

It is now one year before Sydney and Rose Mary marry. Sydney seems passionately in love with his Rosie and desperately misses her. And she clearly loves Sydney or would not be making regular visits. There is, though, an element of mutual over-dependency implied in the writing — dependency on Sydney’s part for the constant affections of Rose Mary and perhaps dependency on Rose Mary’s part for the comfort and security Sydney proffers that help her cope with a stressful world.

8 Grove Road
Brixton
15 Aug 96

My own darling Rosie,

It seemed such a long time before I had your letter. In fact I was awfully disappointed not having one on Wednesday morning as I knew I should not get one till Friday but I thought you would have written as soon as you had mine. It does not matter dear.

Well Sweet, how have you been getting on this week without me – I miss you very much, darling and it seems ages since I saw you. So you had a pleasant day at Clacton. What a pity I could not be there, although you did very well without me, I dare say. Now I suppose you will keep you word and come up to town Friday for the wedding on Saturday, eh dear! I want to enjoy myself but I cannot (really) unless you are here, so do try dove. Your need not trouble about my razor strop. When you come up on Friday will do, and also my songs dear, I should like to have them now as the piano has been tuned.

I intended writing you last night only we had a letter to say that Pater was very ill, so I went over to see him. They tell me he will never get up again, poor fellow.  He can scarcely speak now. Ma and I are going over [to the hospital] tomorrow. We can see him at any time we like.

I am afraid this is not a very nice letter, dearest, but you must excuse it this time and I will make up for it in the next. I should like to hear from you on Monday if you have the time before church to write. I shall think of you Sweet about one quarter to eleven tomorrow morning going to church. How I wish I were going with you.

Today I have been working very hard in the garden to get it nice for Saturday. I have had just about enough.

Well darling Girl, please forgive me for sending you such a short note and don’t forget to let me have yours on Monday even if I do not deserve it. Remember me to Mr. and Mrs. Isitt and tell them I still miss the Parsonage very much.

Dear Rosie: Nerves

This is the first mention of Rosie’s ill health. She appears to get anxiety attacks, which Sydney makes reference to in many of his letters to her. This was apparently a life-long condition that made it very difficult for Rosie through the coming years to cope with the demands of a young family.

61 Birchanger Rd,
Tuesday, Oct 15, 1895

My dearest Rosie,

I got your letter yesterday but I did not quite understand about your coming up. Will it be Friday or Saturday? I would rather you came to Croydon or Norwood if it is possible. But still, if you have to come up by a very slow train it is hardly worth while, is it dear? Cannot you catch the ten minutes to nine train and change at Sutton. That is a fast one. Only stops at Chichester. The one I came up by, I think it stops at Sutton. You would be able to find out better than I should. Anyway dear, do as you like. I will meet you wherever it is.

I suppose you are beginning to feel quite excited. Do not get over-excited and make yourself ill. How have you got over your bad attack? Quite well again, eh? You think I should get tired of you being home all day. You think so. Perhaps you are afraid of it. In that case, suppose I do go out and only come in to meals, eh? What would Rosie say to that?

Well, dear girl, I have nothing to write about. Let me know in good time about the trains. With fondest love from


Ever your loving Sid

Dear Rosie: Christmas

Rosie appears to be living with a Mr. and Mrs. Islitt. My guess is that she is a boarder there while she attends school in London. Her parents are likely back in Hong Kong — a common practice in the day and repeated with Sydney’s children. From the age of 13, Frank, the eldest, was left for years at boarding school while his parents lived in Japan.

Thursday, 12 Dec 1895



My darling Rosie,



I got your two letters. I was so sorry I upset you, but you were waxy with me too, were you not? Anyway, we will not mention anything more about it, although you say you have not quite forgiven me. But I know what that is trying to tease eh?



I am so sorry Mrs. Isitt has been ill. You must do all you can for her and get her well again. Let her have rest. Remember me very kindly to her and also Mr. Isitt. Is he Well?



You never mention your aunt in any of your letters. How do you agree with her this time? [meaning(?) how are you getting on with her now?] It is unfortunate not being able to come down to you this Christmas, isn’t it dear. But you must come up to town to me if your good people can spare you. I will not mention any particular day as Christmas comes on a Wednesday so shall leave it to you to come either Monday or Tuesday. The Mater will be pleased to see you any time but let me know well beforehand so that I can meet you at the station. I can arrange to be out anytime between 12 and 3 o’cl;ock.



Well dearest girl, have you quite got over the “upsetting” I caused you? I did not mean to do it, you know that dear. But I am afraid I am a bit thoughtless. On the other hand, I had no idea it was so long since I wrote you. Well, forgive. Will you not, I shall have to give you some extra “Christmas Kisses” to make up for it, shall I not? Can I give you more than I did the last time you were here, do you think? I don’t think so as I shall not be here all day to bother you as before.



I went over to see the poor old Guv. last Sunday. He’s just about the same when we went over (Eva and I). He was in the porter’s room sitting [in] an armchair [near] the fire as comfortable [as he could be]. Altho’ perhaps it may seem strange to you, I had to do a small grizzle as I said goodbye to him. He asked Eve when she was coming over to see him and said “Your Ma will always be glad to see you.”



Well, good night dear love with heaps of love and kisses from your everlasting



Sid

Dear Rosie: Nikko

Tokyo
10 Aug 1911

My darling Rosie,

I ought to have written you in time for today’s mail but only had time to send a few cards to the kiddies. I expect, therefore, you you will be rather disappointed. I’ve been awfully busy lately. One or two have been away from the office and it has made it such hard work to get things up to date.

I had your letter on Saturday just as I was leaving for Nikko for the weekend and so did not have much time for writing you a long yarn but was able to send to the Post Office for the money order for 2 pounds 10 which I hope will be useful to you. It is not much dearest, but if you are pressed, ask them at the office for more and I will repay it here.

Well, I suppose you would like to hear a little about what Nikko is like, eh? Altho’ I left the office about 11:45 we did not reach the hotel at Nikko till a quarter past six. What a lovely place it is! The most lovely hills and waterfalls and running streams at every turn.


The hotel is some distance from the station, I should say about 2 miles, and uphill all the way. We have to pass the famous Sacred Bridge (I think you have a postcard of it; if not I will send you one). And from there to the hotel about three quarters of a mile we run beside a rushing torrent with the most glorious hills on either side. We had no time, of course, to go anywhere on Saturday evening.

So on Sunday morning I went to the early service at the church conducted by the Bishop of Tokyo (also staying at the Hotel) and after breakfast we started off with three other tourists (Germans) for the Terami Falls, about 3 miles distant, one of the finest sights I have ever seen! We were able to climb up the rocks and actually get right underneath the falls.


We came back to tiffin and in the afternoon a big party of us ladies and gentlemen went to see the famous Temple quite close to the Hotel. Oh dear, how I wished you could have been there too, but still, you shall go there next year (D.V.) Sweetheart. [D.V. = Deo Volente, latin for God willing].


On Monday morning my messmate [table partner in the hotel dining room] and I took a short walk before breakfast across the stream, which is a series of miniature waterfalls, the water rushing between the big boulders (I am sending you by the same post views of these places I visited).


After breakfast, a party of us went to the Jakko Falls. These are not quite so good and we had to jump from one rock to the other and at one place, before we got to the falls themselves. But still the country was very beautiful.The finest I have yet seen in Japan so far.

We were going to ‘tour’ and go through Chunenji, a very beautiful spot further up in the mountains but we changed our minds and saw Nikko instead. So I must go to the other place later in the autumn when the leaves begin to change colour. That is the time, they say! If I go I will write and tell you all about it [and] send you some more views.

Hong Kong: History

Hong Kong

Hong Kong held 3,000 Chinese scattered in small fishing villages until the mid 19th century. The city itself is a small island in the mouth of the Pearl River, 76 miles southeast of Canton. Its waterfall at Aberdeen had initially attracted British attention because it provided a convenient fresh water supply, but Hong Kong’s superb harbor was its main asset. The British traveler Robert Fortune captured this promise early on:

After their victory in the first Opium War, the British acquired the island under the 1842 Treaty of Nanking, and named the island’s capital city Victoria. Soon the Chinese population more than doubled, to fifteen- to twenty-thousand people, and Hong Kong along with Shanghai surpassed Canton as the main centers of China’s foreign trade. Piracy and disease afflicted the colony in the early years, but many Chinese fled to Hong Kong to escape the rebellions and disorder that struck the Chinese interior in the 1850s. By 1859 Hong Kong had over 85,000 residents, and had become the center of a wide-ranging overseas Chinese trading network, dominated by the prosperous Hong Kong business elite under British colonial protection. The founding of the Hong Kong and Shanghai Bank in 1864, based on Chinese capital, showed that Hong Kong had become the leading financial center on the Chinese coast for international trade.

  Perry himself observed that there was “every sign of commercial prosperity, although the place is not very attractive to visitors.”

“View of Hong Kong From East Market, April 7, 1853”
by William Heine”

Commodore Matthew Perry’s Japan Expedition [cwHK_1853_Heine_bx]

Victoria peak dominates most pictures of the city in the early years. The small but growing settlement gradually climbed up the peak as the city grew. The waves of new immigrants clustered around the port while Western-style residences higher up the peak became the most prestigious in the colony.

“View of Victoria Town, Island of Hong Kong, 1850”
by B. Clayton

Hong Kong Museum of Art [cwHK_1850_AH64251]

 

  Unlike Canton, the British faced no restrictions from Chinese officials on where they could live or walk, and men and women could associate freely. The British tried to recreate a small version of English life at home on the distant shores of Asia. Although they were still a minority in the midst of a growing Chinese population, the colonial government protected Westerners from the local population and gave them privileges. Chinese merchants and workers, who could do business without facing the hong merchant monopoly or supervision from the hoppo, found that they could prosper in Hong Kong if they cooperated with the British. They helped to defend the colony against attack in the second Opium War and used their access to the British global empire to gain wealth and prestige. In the face of rebellions in China and threats from the Qing imperial government, the British carefully kept order in Hong Kong while encouraging trade by both Chinese and Western merchants.

In this idealized view of early Hong Kong, Western men and women gather in the gardens while a Chinese man bows respectfully to them. Hong Kong was a single woman’s paradise, according to the naval officer Lt. Edward Cree, with “forty ladies and four times as many men.” Even though thousands of Chinese had come to the city, artists chose to focus mainly on the foreign occupants.

“View of Spring Gardens, Hong Kong, 20th August, 1846”
painting by Murdoch Bruce, lithograph by A. Maclure

Hong Kong Museum of Art [cwHK_1846_AH643890]

 

Flagstaff House, built in 1846 for the first military governor of the colony, still survives as the oldest residential colonial structure in Hong Kong. It continued to be the British military headquarters until 1932, and is currently the Museum of Tea Ware.

“Flagstaff House, Hong Kong,” 1846
drawn by Murdoch Bruce, lithograph by A. Maclure

Hong Kong Museum of Art [cwHK_1846_AH643898]

 

  The urban architecture of Hong Kong reflected the British determination to remold Chinese territory on the European model. Causeway Bay, for example, became the celebrated site of both a mint (with a formal garden) and the powerful Scottish trading firm of Jardine and Matheson. William Jardine and James Matheson founded their company in 1832 in Canton and they grew rapidly by exporting tea and silk to England and smuggling opium from India to China. As soon as Britain acquired Hong Kong, they purchased land in the Causeway area. In contrast to many initially skeptical merchants, Jardine and Matheson believed that Hong Kong had a prosperous future. Later they expanded to the other major treaty-port cities on the Chinese coast, but they kept their headquarters in Hong Kong and played a dominant role in the political and economic development of the city. Jardine Matheson is still the largest private employer in Hong Kong and one of the largest shipping companies in the world.

Causeway Bay became the site of British financial institutions like the Mint, depicted here in the 1860s.

“The Mint and its Garden, Hong Kong,” 1860’s, unknown artist

Hong Kong Museum of Art [cwHK_1860s_AH8813]

 

  American businessmen, however, soon entered the trade to compete with the British. The Massachusetts traders Augustine Heard, Joseph Coolidge, and John Murray Forbes broke away from the firm of Russell and Company to create their own business in 1840, and in 1856 moved their headquarters from Canton to Hong Kong. They built their residence on a hill overlooking the harbor. The Heards introduced steamboats to China, and after the legalization of the opium trade made great profits from shipping opium along China’s inland rivers. The Heard company collapsed in bankruptcy in 1875.
In 1856 the head office of major American trading firm Augustine Heard and Company, with operations in Shanghai and Fuzhou, was moved to Hong Kong from Canton.

“Residence of Augustine Heard and Company, Hong Kong”
ca. 1860, unknown artist

Peabody Essex Museum
[cwHK_1860c_M17297]

 

 

 

 

 

 
  Google Books: see full quote in A Narrative of an Exploratory Visit to Each of the Consular Cities of China, and to the Islands of Hong Kong and Chusan: In Behalf of the Church Missionary Society, in the Years 1844, 1845, 1846 by George Smith (Harper & brothers, New York, 1857), p. 448  
 

As in Canton, British and Americans commissioned Chinese painters to depict their new outposts in the Pacific. Western artists likewise focused on the new Western buildings, ships clustered in the harbor, and the dramatic mountain scenery. Unlike Canton, however, Hong Kong was a colonial possession completely under the domination of a foreign power, and many foreigners viewed the native Chinese population with fear and contempt. The visiting missionary George Smith, for example, wrote this in 1846:

His attitude reflected the increasingly negative views of the Chinese that grew among missionaries and merchants after the Opium War.

  In this “View of Hong Kong Harbor,” done by a Western artist some time between 1860 and 1870, Western architecture and foreign ships dominate the scene and there is no evidence of a Chinese presence.

“View of Hong Kong Harbor,” 1860–1870
Watercolor by Marciano Antonio Baptista

Peabody Essex Museum [cwHK_1860-70_M10874]

 

  In Canton, the foreigners lived in a well-established urban center whose population was governed by a systematic bureaucracy. Hong Kong was more like a frontier boomtown, where both foreigners and migrant Chinese went to escape the constraints of life at home or to get rich in a new place. Much of the population was unruly, but the British created an environment of security that could guarantee profits to most people. Refuting early skepticism about its future, during the late 19th century Hong Kong grew to become the primary port of trade with China, rivaled only by Shanghai. The British control of the island, its status as a free port, and its convenient coastal location made it the ideal place to gain access to the large Chinese market. Hong Kong was a freer place than Canton, but a much more colonial one.

Here again, Western buildings and vessels dominate the scene, with little sense of a human presence and no indication that this was part of China. This was typical of much of the colonial artwork centering on Hong Kong.

“City of Victoria, Hong Kong,” 1860–1865
Gouache on paper, unknown Chinese artist

Peabody Essex Museum [cwHK_1860-65_E81235]

 

 

Coda: Macau, Canton, & Hong Kong

 

This fan combines views of Hong Kong (left), Macau (center), and Canton (right), 1845–65.

Peabody Essex Museum [cwOF_1845-65_E81311]

 

  The three Pearl River delta cities represented three distinct phases of Western commercial contact with China, and each city developed a special style. All three reflected the shift from strict Chinese control over foreign trade from the 16th through 18th centuries to the free trade era dominated by British colonialism in the mid 19th century. Portuguese Macau, the oldest Western settlement, retained a modest, charming, relaxed atmosphere dominated by its stunning beach, the fishing trade, the forts and churches. Canton, already a giant city before the Westerners arrived, placed the new foreigners in a segregated quarter but actively mingled native Chinese and foreign cultures in the interest of profit. Hong Kong, the most Western dominated, became a prize British colonial possession, where Chinese flocked to take advantage of the opportunities offered by contact with a wider world.

Architecture and street life in the three cities reflected their particular origins and populations. In Macau, the Portuguese churches and forts provided the backdrop for scenes of the many different religions and cultures of the local population. In Canton, Westerners in the factories peered out at the population of a giant empire, tantalizingly close, but mainly inaccessible. In Hong Kong, the colonial settlers and officials made themselves into a distinct class tightly closed off from the Chinese around them, and often ignored or feared the local population.

All three cities attracted visitors and temporary residents from around the world, while simultaneously serving as funnels for Chinese products entering the global market. For most Westerners, they became windows on a far-away and alien world—albeit windows that were always narrow and usually all but closed to any real appreciation or understanding of life in the interior and among the Chinese people as a whole. Foreigners by and large celebrated their own lives in sequestered enclaves on the China coast. They revealed their fine taste by collecting elegant Chinese artworks, all the while remaining largely silent about the fact that the funds that supported their exotic connoisseurship often rested on illicit trade in opium. Even while extolling the superior morality and civilization of the West and berating the Chinese for their shortcomings in “moral, honorable” conduct, they waged not one but two wars to force the Chinese to legalize opium imports, open additional ports to receive them, and agree to a low fixed tariff on all items in this great exercise in “free trade.”

The Opium Wars signaled the end of the old Canton trade system under which the great Qing dynasty held the upper hand and dictated who and how and under what restrictions trade could be carried out. China was indeed the “central kingdom” during this long span of time—powerful, self-sufficient, capable of warding off foreign threats and dictating the terms of its relations with other nations and peoples. Defeat in the Opium Wars, and the ensuing collapse of the old Canton-system regimen of controlled trade, signaled the emergence of the European and American powers as the new imperial arbiters of wealth and power—and the consequences for China were dire. England’s colonialization of Hong Kong was, in its way, a perfect symbol of this new impotence—and the modern history of China for a century and a half thereafter reflected this catastrophe. Once the commanding great civilization of Asia, China abruptly became an object to be acted upon—besieged for decades to come by both external threats and internal upheaval.

When Chinese in the 20th and even early 21st century spoke of their country’s “humiliation,” it was generally understood that this is when the great decline began.

 

The Empress

1 Sep 1923 2 minutes to 12 noon

Yokohama harbour Japan

Maurice Bruce arrives at the docks to see a friend off on the Empress of Australia. Moments after his arrival the earthquake hits, folding the docks like paper and causing large portions to slough away underfoot. Here is what he saw….[Source: Wikipedia]

On Saturday, 1 September 1923, at 11:55 am, the Empress of Australia was making ready to depart from the docks at Yokohama, Japan. Several hundred people were on the docks, catching streamers and confetti from the passengers lining the rails, and waving their farewells. Tugs were about to ease the ship away from the dock when, without warning the 23,000 ton liner was flung violently from side to side. The earth trembled under several violent shocks and sections of the dock collapsed under the feet of the panic stricken crowds. The land and remaining dock structure began to roll in wave like motions as high as six to eight feet.

In minutes the worst shocks were over, but after-shocks, some quite heavy, continued for some time, while winds rose to 70 mph (110 km/h). From the city a heavy rumbling sound could be heard as hundreds of buildings collapsed into rubble. This was the 1923 Great Kantō earthquake, devastating Tokyo and Yokohama and the entire Kantō region of central Honshū. This was one of the worst earthquake disasters in recorded history.

The Empress of Australia was in a very dangerous position. Crowded with passengers, she was still alongside the remains of the dock, with a freighter moored close behind so she could not clear without the aid of tugs. Meantime, the Lyons Maru, moored to the east, had lost her cable and drifted across the harbor, colliding with the Empress at her stern. She then hit amidships, shattering a lighter loaded with lumber that had drifted alongside. This small vessel acted as a buffer between the two large ships and prevented serious damage. Tugs had disappeared in the confusion and fires were started on the docks and were spreading rapidly.

Available crew and passengers were put to work hosing down the ship to put out sparks and embers that were falling on the decks. Ropes and ladders were lowered over the side so that people trapped on the dock could climb aboard. Captain Robinson then tried to push the freighter moored astern with his ship, to allow enough room to maneuver away from the flaming docks. The Empress was able to carefully move the nearby freighter, the Steel Navigator; and then the Empress slowly pulled away.

When the Empress of Australia moved forward, her port propeller fouled in the anchor cable of the freighter. Fortunately the liner was now about 60 feet (18 m) away from the flames, and the winds had shifted, blowing the fires away from the ship. By 3pm the fires had died down and the wind dropped off to a light breeze; the ship was immobile but safe for the moment. In the distance vast fires could be seen in the city. The ship’s lifeboats were lowered and manned by members of the crew and passenger volunteers, who formed rescue parties to help those ashore, working through the night.

The next morning, the ship was again in danger from a large mass of burning oil that was moving across the harbor. The Empress could not steer because of the damaged propeller, but was able to avoid the oil fire long enough to get assistance from the tanker Iris. Her captain agreed to tow the bow of the Empress of Australia around, and she was then able to move out to sea and a safer anchorage. When taking a count on Sunday, there were over 2000 refugees on board.

On Monday, the RMS Empress of Canada arrived on her regular schedule; and she was able to provide the Empress of Australia with more stores. Then the Empress of Canada transported a large number of refugees on to Kobe, where the Japanese government had set up a relief center.

On 4 September, the Imperial Japanese Navy’s second Fusō-class battleship Yamashiro arrived at the harbor. The Empress of Australia had been unable to proceed due to the fact that she had a fouled propeller. Arrangements were made for a diver from the Yamashiro to inspect the damage and effect repairs. The cable was unwound and the machinery was tested; and the fouled propeller was found to have suffered no damage.

The Empress of Australia was now free to leave, but at the request of the British Consul, she remained as long as needed for continued relief work. Each morning, for the next several days, the Empress of Australia re-entered the devastated harbour and sent her boats ashore manned by a combination of crew, local residents, and passenger volunteers. Refugees were brought aboard, transferred from the ship to other vessels, or taken to Kobe. To aid the victims, the ships officers and most of the passengers donated everything they could spare. She finally departed Yokohama on 12 September 1923, returning to her routine duties; but her services were not forgotten. Captain Samuel Robinson received numerous awards in recognition of his actions, including the CBE, and award of the Lloyds Silver Medal.

A group of passengers and refugees who were aboard during the disaster commissioned a bronze tablet and presented it to the ship in recognition of the relief efforts. When the Empress of Australia was scrapped in 1952, the bronze tablet was rescued and presented to Captain Robinson, then aged 82, in a special ceremony in Vancouver.

Earthquake: Missionary

This is a lengthy account of the earthquake by one who lived to tell the tale, missionary B.S. Moore. It includes the accounts of other missionaries with whom she worked in Yokohama. The holocaust Moore describes was of such a magnitude and ferocity that I am left dumbfounded that all seven of my family survived unscathed (Sydney, Frank, Maurice, Vi, Vi’s husband to be Joe Fish, Eva Cranch – Sydney’s sister – and her husband Bill). Moore and her associates likely swapped stories with my uncle Maurice Bruce and his aunt Eva Cranch, all of whom were on the SS President Jefferson together, returning as refugees to Canada and the U.S.  Although a number of religious pronouncements have been removed for readability, there remains a strong evangelical flavour to the writing. That aside, this is a story worth reading. Indeed, it will take your breath away…. OUR MARVELOUS ESCAPE FROM DEATH

 11:59, September 1, 1923 Yokohama, Japan

Accounts by B.S. Moore and Others, 1923

DURING the passing moments of midday, while the Oriental sun was shining and a gentle breeze was blowing, came a sudden roar as of a subterranean clap of thunder and quick as a flash of lightning the house began to rock and bounce up and down. We were beginning to eat lunch, beautiful tomatoes, carrots, onions and “cucumbers, made a very inviting lunch indeed, especially in hot weather as the temperature was 90 to 95 degrees. We all started for the door, but were thrown violently against the walls back and forth, when suddenly the west side of the house raised up. The vibration hurled us twelve to fifteen feet eastward out of the house against the fence. The house was thrown in the same direction, just missing my head, but caught my wife and her Bible woman, Grace Suzuki, under the wreckage. Buried out of sight they began to call on Jesus to help them.

Wife was nearest to me, so I began working with all the strength and swiftness there was in me. Great power came upon me, it seemed my arms were like Sampson’s, everything, big and small, boards, timbers, tiling and all, gave way as I worked. My hands were bursting, the skin of the palms of my hands could not stand the strength that entered my arms. I could see it tear but no pain. The earth constantly rocking and rising up and down at intervals made it difficult to work. As I removed the roof, my wife appeared to be alive and saying, “my poor arm, Jesus you will help me.”

I worked so fast it seemed I had them both out in two or three minutes, although there were tons of wreckage over them, a nine-roomed house used as a Bible Training Home, all furnished, having collapsed in a few seconds, and under this they were caught. My wife could walk, so I sat her on a rock, but she was trusting in and praying to the “Rock of Ages.” Our Bible woman whom I rescued, could also walk, but was bruised about the face. She went to a nearby Japanese “Dispensary” and obtained some gauze and cotton and some disinfectant in a clam shell. There I did my first work of a surgeon, giving first aid. I bandaged the arm and fixed it up as well as I could, then sat down and held a prayer meeting in the middle of the road. All pain went out of the arm and never returned. Fires were raging on all sides except a narrow space in the direction of “Sagi Yama,” a small mountain to the south of us.

We read in Isaiah 29:6: “Thou shalt be visited of the Lord of Hosts with thunder, and with earthquake, and great noise, with storm and tempest, and the flame of devouring fire.” This we experienced in the Yokohama disaster, which laid it flat in from five to fifteen seconds. Thundering beneath us were shocks swift as lightning, tearing the earth into thousands of pieces. Opening it large enough to take in houses, as one man told me he saw houses go out of sight as the earth opened and closed. Autos and rickshas were seen to go down in the fissures of the earth. It is indescribable. Thousands pinned under houses calling for help everywhere and very few people to be seen to help them. The Japanese were dazed, they had no presence of mind to act.

We wondered where to go as the fire came down the valley fanned by a typhoon. Our Japanese servant, Kimpachi, (No. 8 gold is name in English) informed us we must move quickly to the south and ascend the mountain for safety. We pulled out of the wreckage a few Japanese beds (thin mattresses) and a few cans of fish and prunes, etc., and went bravely up the mountain. Wife never complained. After reaching the summit I went again to the wreckage and at great risk of life was successful in the rescuing of some thin summer dresses, a suit of underwear and some canned beans. The fire was raging and roaring like thunder, miles of blaze, fanned by a gale, was a startling scene., I returned through the narrow street, which was about eight feet wide, the fire burning on one side.

This was my last trip to the spot where we resided until after the fire had consumed everything. We settled down again on the “Mount of God’s choice” for us and held prayer meeting, weeping over the burning city, realizing what it meant with half a million or more shut up and surrounded by fire with no way of escape. Only a few very fortunate ones near the edge of the city found refuge in the park and bay. Thousands jumped into the canals only to perish by water, by suffocation and fire from burning boats. Suicides were numerous. The Japanese are fatalists, and have no hope, no consolation in their gods in such a time.Men Ought Always to Pray and Not to Faint Prayer Changes Things

Out in the middle of the road, amid the ghastly scenes, we united in prayer, weeping before the Lord, imploring Him to please stop the quakes, but no response, only a vision came before me that as the Heavenly Father was of purer eyes, He could not look upon sin (Heb. 1:13) for He turned His face away from looking upon the terrible scene of Jesus Christ His Son hanging on the cross, bearing our sin and sickness, our judgment upon the cruel Roman cross. We asked the Lord to remove all pain from my wife’s broken arm and restore and preserve all our lives from death which was seemingly imminent and He graciously answered prayer and Mrs. Moore’s condition was quite normal from that time on through the terrible destruction with its scenes of horror and woe all around us. Our neighbors were nearly all killed instantly. One family never even screamed. Doctor, wife, nurse, and two children all hurled into eternity with many hundreds of thousands meeting the same fate; think of a city of over five hundred thousand people wiped out in a few hours; on every side of you raging fires, oils and explosives helping in the destruction of the city of Yokohama and its people.

The chemicals and explosives at Yokosuka all exploding and burning amid many war vessels, including a giant super-dreadnaught of 42,000 tons reported a total wreck as she was on the the dry docks nearing completion. What an outlay of money all wasted! Surely “He maketh wars to cease unto the ends of the earth.”-—Psa. 46:9. “Be still and know that I am God; I will be exalted among the heathen, I will be exalted in the earth.” Shocks continued constantly; for about one week there were over two thousand with only a short cessation between sharp jerks and splitting of the earth. The earth settled in places and the east coast dropped down eight feet.

Preparing to Climb the Mountain

We had pulled out of the wreckage a few Japanese futons (beds) and a few cans of eatables, and a few pieces of wearing apparel tied up in a sheet (which we gave away to others on the mountain and on the ship), and amid raging fires on every side, we wended our way through the narrow, crooked passages in which a number were also trying to make their escape to a place of safety. Finally we reached the top of “Sagi Yama,” a small mountain, and there we sat down. Our hearts were so anxious as we felt many of our dear Christians had perished. Soon news was conveyed to us that our Japanese pastor with his wife and son were gone, also Bro. Sato who worked in the Fukuin Printing house, a gospel and Bible printing company in which the manager and the whole staff of seventy employees perished. This was one of the largest Bible printing houses in the world. Printing plates to the value of nearly $250,000 have been totally ruined. This represents versions in as many as twenty-five languages and dialects for Japan, China, Siam, and the Philippines. The American Bible houses were totally destroyed by the fires which broke out spontaneously in connection with the quake fanned by a 50-mile gale of wind, a heavy typhoon which increased the fire to such proportions that it formed into whirlwinds of funnel shaped clouds, water spouts or cloud-bursts not being a comparison, sucking up houses and many people into the air only to fall down again crushed and roasted, except one, who was seen to disappear in the clouds and never returned. We trust he went up and joined Enoch and Elijah. Translation power and faith is being given God’s children these days preparing them for the “Parousia”—1st Thess. 4:16-18. “The dead shall be raised and the living caught up in a moment in a twinkling of an eye—1st Cor. 15:51, 52. Resurrection in Prophecy, “Awake and sing, ye that dwell in dust, for thy dew is as the dew of herbs, and the earth shall cast out her dead. Come, my people, enter into thy chambers, and shut thy doors about thee; hide thyself, as it were, for a little moment, until the indignation be overpast. For behold the Lord cometh out of His place to punish the inhabitants of the earth for their iniquity; the earth also shall disclose her blood, and shall no more cover her slain.”—Isa. 26:19-21.Fires Rage and Fearful Sights

For fifty miles from Yokosuka to the north of Tokyo the greatest conflagration of ages beheld for the first time, storm and tempest and devouring fire. People who defied God and cursed Jesus our Lord were all being consumed. The din, the smoke, terrible explosions, and nerve-racking shocks unparalleled in history. The shocks were so violent and houses fell so quickly and fires spread so rapidly. Oils and combustible materials fed the flames in every direction. There were no means of escape as open spaces were few. Only one park of any size where five thousand fled only to meet their fate by suffocation as the fires raged and surrounded the people, their clothes on fire and cinders raining upon them, members of families running through the smoke calling for their loved ones with no response. Thousands pinned under the buildings calling for help but no one available, beholding with their eyes the oncoming flames fanned into a fury with the raging winds and in a few moments they cease to be. Rescue work was limited to the water front where quick work rescued many from the approaching fires. A number who could swim were picked up by ship launches and saved, but many drowned, while others bled to death, no surgeon or nurses to stop the blood by the use of tight bandages. This should warn all to prepare to meet the Lord.

We stood beside a rough bandit and he remarked, as we wept over the burning city, that we should not weep as it would make us weak in our body, just say “shi kata ga nai,” (it cannot be helped), however, we could not help but weep as we saw hun-dreds of thousands of people were being roasted and cremated, for we could smell them roasting, while thousands of others jumped overboard into the canals and bay to escape the fire, but alas only to perish, with the exception of a few who bailed water over their heads or ducked themselves under incessantly for seven hours until the city was practically reduced to cinders. These are realities we shall never forget in this life.A Typical Feudal War

NEWS of the escape of a large number of criminals reached us, because the prison had been demolished, therefore this stirred the civilians into action. They armed themselves with bamboo clubs, with knives tied on the ends, and with such swords as they were able to get from the wrecked homes. The earth was still rocking and screams as of wild hyenas or other wild beasts were filling the night air as the war began and increased in fury killing and pillaging everywhere. About four hundred Japanese refugees taking refuge in an open space at the end of Yawata bashi car line were all killed by the escaped criminals. The fight.

[photo: Yokohama Park. Scenes of Death and as the few who escaped remarked. It was a veritable hell.]

ing then spread to Tokyo. Kyoto and other towns began clamoring over where the next capital should be set up. Many innocent Chinese and Koreans, and nine Americans were slain, also after the quake wholesale massacre of Koreans followed. Five were lined up before our eyes and taken just behind a hedge fence to be killed. My wife buried her face in her pillow to avoid the horrible scene as they marched right past her as she was lying on the ground. It was surely a sight which would unnerve a strong man to say nothing of an injured woman. From good authority a message was sent to the United States that 15,000 Koreans were imprisoned and 250 were bound hand and foot and soaked in oil and burned alive, also eight Koreans were bayoneted to death in the presence of a party of American tourists, who were then forced at pistol point to drive their auto over the dead bodies. An American citizen, assistant dock superintendent of Yokohama, is quoted as an authority for the charge that the Koreans were burned alive. Dr. Thompkins alleges that Japanese officials issued orders directing that as many Koreans as possible be killed. Also while communication was still in the hands of Japanese control, anti-Koreans took advantage of even the great catastrophe to unjustly accuse Koreans of looting, poisoning wells, incendiarism and all the crimes of the calendar. Japan clamped their censorship and refused to let the reports go through. “Truth will out.” All the wireless equipments on the ships were sealed and no true report was allowed to go out, but after the ships left port and proceeded beyond the three mile limit they rushed the news through, though only fragments of the awful fate of the devastated region were told.

Civilians Complaining

Threats were being made in our company of what they would do if they could not obtain food. We remarked, “there is a field of young onions-and green corn, eat that” and next morning for breakfast they were devouring corn and young onion’s and bon-fires were made where they roasted the corn, and hungry crying children were satisfied. Soon many were out in pursuit of prey. All were soldiers in such a time, of the type of the Samurai days, head hunting and so forth, no law, no order, no policemen to be seen, no Red Cross, no doctors nor hospitals. All were gone and no help for the wounded and dying. All was confusion and fighting. Some wicked fellows brandished their swords in front of us indicating what they could do, but one fellow who knew us said, “You and your wife have been kind to the Japanese, they will not hurt or kill you.” However, our hope was in God and we had no fear, our prayers had reached the throne and our wonderful Savior protected and cared for us. This same bandit was exceptionally kind to Mrs. Moore. He went and hunted the forsaken homes of foreigners until he found a wicker reclining chair which he pulled out and brought up the mountain and helped Mrs. Moore upon it feeling very much satisfied that he had succeeded in making her more comfortable. Some distance away there was a dairy sheltered under the mountain side which had escaped the flames and this bandit went twice and brought milk. Surely God cares for His own. Learning also that the wounded missionary liked fruit he went and found a pear and a small bunch of grapes and brought them to the missionary. A Japanese asked him, “Do you not like fruit?” He answered, “Yes, but the missionary needs them more than I do, I will do without.” Just think how God had touched the heart of one who had been so wicked and caused him to make such sacrifice.

This might put some Christians to shame, because it is easy to give when you have plenty, but to make a sacrifice when you are divested of everything, all your goods, food, clothing, home, no money, no place to lay your head, then you are in a position to appreciate the words of Jesus when He said, “Foxes have holes and the birds of the air have nests, but the Son of Man hath no place to lay His head.”

Secure in Jesus’ Care

The wind changed during the early part of the night, blowing the fire in our direction over the mountain. Sparks like golden leaves or a fiery snow storm came tumbling down over the mountain. Many picked up their few belongings and fled like maddened animals. We said to a company near us, “Hold your ground. There will be no harm to us here.” “All right,” they

[photo: A scene of total loss of property and life where hundreds were working in factories, words fail to describe the wails for help; all were cremated.]

said and abode where they were and not even a hair of our heads was singed, all praise to God alone who loves and protects His own. Underneath were the everlasting arms and the angel of the Lord encamping around about us, Psa. 34:7, and the banner of His love over us. How could we be harmed? Greater is He, the Holy Spirit, within you than he that is in the world.” Comrades, take courage and press on toward the mark.

Fire, War, Death

The war still raging, and the wounded groaning and dying all around us, the dead are covered with a piece of rough straw matting. The soldiers brought some rough boxes wherein were placed the dead. We were called upon to preach the funerals. The graves were dug with a piece of an old garden hoe. We spoke to the company concerning the future after this life and salvation purchased for us through the Blood of Jesus Christ, the Son of God, then sang “When the Roll is Called Up Yonder, I’ll Be There.” We could think of no other kind of hymns, heaven is our objective. The earth still in convulsions it seemed more like a resurrection than a burial from the fact that when Jesus arose from the dead together with many bodies of the saints, there was a great earthquake, the soldiers fell as dead men, the centurion feared greatly, saying “This was the Son of God”—Matt. 27:51-54. We buried the dead quietly just as the sun was setting, and all stood with bowed heads weeping. It was a solemn and never to be forgotten time. The dear, stricken people gathered around us and thanked us for the kind words spoken which brought comfort to their hearts. Surely these are the closing days of man’s rule on the earth. Therefore, dear reader, prepare, for the coming of the Lord draweth nigh.

Revival on the Mountain

Three groups of various sects were engaged in earnest prayer. Some were praying to “Nichiren,” the founder of a sect three hundred years ago, a man who consecrated himself, to the gods and by lying on the ground in the woods for three days and nights without clothing, allowed his body to be bitten by vermin of all kinds in order that he might conquer his flesh in a moral way while he established his faith among the people. Another was a Buddhist sect who prayed to Buddha, and also the Shintoist, who venerate the dead, praying to the departed spirits of all dead relatives, emperors and statesmen, also the dragon, the fox, the Hachiman, eighty thousand gods incorporated in one, including the god of fire, but no answer came. Next in order was our band of five all praying with strong crying and tears, earnestly asking Jesus to have mercy on the dear, stricken people. Suddenly the idol worshipers ceased to call on their gods, saying, “Teacher, pray for us, we are suffering.” Others said, “Teacher sing, 0 sing to us. We heard you last night on the street preaching about great judgments coming on a world of sin and this must be what you told us.” Then we prayed and sang, “When He Cometh to Gather His Jewels,” chorus in Japanese:

All the people wept and said, “What a beautiful song.” Then we all prayed for them and they thanked us for the comfort which had come to their hearts. There were no more heathen prayers offered during the time we were there. They looked to us for comfort and were amazed and wondered as the power of God would come upon Mrs. Moore, causing her to pray and praise God in a heavenly language, called in the Greek “Glossa.” It surely puts the gloss upon us and makes the face to shine and the heart to glow even in the times of greatest trial and suffering, Jesus, help us ever to shine for thee. Eternity alone will reveal the work of the Holy Spirit through the seed sown in hearts in such a time as that. Many new converts were swept into eternity in a few seconds, but most of the older Christians were safe.

Missionaries and Churches

Two missionaries of the “Tokiwa M. E. home” were reported

[photo: Cherry Blossom Season at Hommoku, Yokohama, Japan, Everybody at this season is cheerful.]

killed, also one in the Ferris Seminary. When rescuers tried to get her out she said, “Never mind me, I am going to heaven, try to save the girls.” It was a girls’ school and she was willing to sacrifice her life for their sake. Also two Y. W. C. A. workers were reported killed in Chinatown, where fifty thousand of Chinese perished. As to churches and missions, there was not one of any name but that was totally destroyed, including every Mission School, Salvation Army barracks, and all in the city of Yokohama. Not one escaped destruction.

The water front was the “Mecca.” Many fled to the piers and sampans, barges and ships for refuge only to soon be surrounded by fire. Oil tanks exploded as the fire from the burning hotels, clubs and steamship offices spread, fanned by a heavy gale of wind blowing the flames over the water. Many oil tanks connected by pipes separated and the oil poured out over the harbor and ignited, turning it into a veritable hell, consuming boats loaded with people and all the freight on lighters, some loaded with gasoline and benzine, naptha and coal oil. The Japanese freighters lying in the harbor did no rescue work and they refused to take any one on board, thus thousands perished as the smoke enveloped them. They leaped overboard and many roasted alive on boats. When the smoke cleared away there was no one, in sight and every boat had disappeared. The bottom of the bay raised up and down and shook the ships so that a number were totally wrecked. The steel plate loosened and they sank. The great Empress of Australia, loaded with passengers, was just pulling out from the dock when the first shock came, which swayed the ship and threw many to the floors and decks. At first it was thought that the ship had hit the dock too hard in backing out, but instantly the passengers saw chimneys and buildings swaying and falling. Then they knew it was an earthquake, also instantly the great concrete pier collapsed on which hundreds of people were standing who were farewelling departing friends, throwing most of them into the bay, where they scrambled among the wreckage. Bro. D. G. Swanson of the Salvation Army was among them. He said a number must have perished. He was able to swim, so made his escape, and quick work by the ship launches rescued others. The disabled liner for a time seemed doomed as in backing out the propeller was twisted by being tangled up in the chain of the “Steel Navigator,” a large sea tug then in harbor. The “Australia” was held there for many hours. Finally the captain signalled a Dutch liner to come to her aid as the oil which had ignited on the water was burning all around the ship and the crew fought valiantly with many large hose to force the burning oil back from the ship. With the city and boats in the harbor on fire the temperature arose to 140 degrees. On board the boat the people almost suffocated. The Dutch captain sent a message back saying his ship was loaded with benzine and oils and it was a great risk to undertake, however, the British are persistent, you know, and they believed in being pertinaciously solicitous in such a time of dire need. Finally Sunday morning the Dutch captain answered the call and ventured near the blazing oil, sent a wire cable to the crippled liner laden with refugees and passengers, who were well nigh overcome from heat and fear. Slowly the great liner began to move as the brave Dutch captain steamed up and every one gave a sigh of relief and soon they were anchored outside the breakwater most of which was demolished and under water. Thus the “Empress of Australia” with more than a thousand human lives was saved. We saw English, Americans, Canadians, and people of all nations take off their hats and say three cheers (banzais) to the Dutch captain who ran the great risk of being blown to atoms to save the lives of others. God bless him. “Greater love hath no man than this: that a man lay down his life for his friends.” Amen.

About five thousand people had fled to this park for refuge, the only large vacant space in the city. Sights were shocking. Some with legs or arms off, mangled in the most frightful manner, were taken there by their friends, bleeding and dying, and no one to help them. Great fissures had opened and the water and mud as great geysers spouted out of the earth. The water was nearly waist deep in places as all the water mains were broken and the fountains of the deep were broken up, while gas pipes separated added to the horrors, and flames were intensified by the gas explosions coming from out of the earth. It seemed as though the earth was afloat. The earth’s surface seems to be very thin in this region. On Sunday morning the park was literally covered with dead and dying, lying in the mud, faces downward, (the mud was eight inches deep), with clothes burned off, necks and backs burned and blistered. There they lay, poor, suffering souls. No one could help them as there was nothing to bring to them, not even a drink of water. The canals were putrid with filth and dead bodies and many even drank that. The dead were in heaps in some sections of the canals. Many went insane and went roving about; suicides were numerous; people in general thought the end of the world had come. One policeman who was also fleeing was called upon to help rescue a young Mexican woman who was pinned under the house, fire breaking out near by, he remarked, “shi kata ga nai, mina san mo sugu shinde shimasu.” i. e., “no help for this, everybody will soon be dead,” and he went his way without helping. Thus they resign themselves to their fatalistic ideas. Nearly all who took refuge in the park perished.

The Wounded Foreigners

Among the foreign refugees were people of almost every nation, wounded men, women, boys and girls, some with legs cut open, hands crushed, parts of bodies torn away, many of them died of infections, and the ships were not provided with facilities sufficient for such an emergency although doctors and medical missionaries who were aboard on their way to China and Korea worked untiringly night and day. The day following the quake over seven hundred operations were performed on board the Empress of Australia, on shore, and on the French liner. Everybody worked with a will and divided clothing and all they had with the refugees. Thank God for such a benevolent spirit.

Many died on their way to America and were buried at sea. The greatest toll of life aboard the ships was on the Empress of Australia, the crippled ship. She reported by wireless one day they were proceeding slowly because there had been up to that day forty funerals at sea, somebody’s loved ones committed to the cold briny deep, awaiting the resurrection with many a torn and bleeding heart left behind.

Our Departure from the City of Destruction

Three days after the quake we were notified by Captain Swanson of the Salvation Army that passage was available on the Empress of Canada for foreigners who wished to leave and advised us by all means to leave at once because of Mrs. Moore’s wounds, which had no attention up till this time. We did not want to go. We were willing to remain and share the fate of our dear Christians. They knew we were homeless and almost penniless and could not help them, therefore they said as we asked them what they thought about our leaving, “Yes, teacher, you should go, as you could help us more from America than you could here and we Japanese can get along somehow.” We did not run away from our work. It was the greatest trial of our life to have to leave.

We started for the harbor in a drenching rain and high wind. When we reached the boat what little clothing we had was soaked through. For food we had a can of fish and glass of honey, which was pulled out of the debris after the house fell. However, we did not have any appetite for food because of the odor of human flesh roasting all around us. We passed by many Koreans who had been slain in the uprising or revival of feudalism. The trip to the boat was not a pleasant one, we had to climb over debris and wreckage of all kinds and as far as eye could reach over the city of Yokohama, there was not a house left, nothing but smoking embers, a vast cemetery of hundreds of thousands cremated. The Union church, a fine stone structure was lying in heaps. Tons of it were thrown for sixty feet as if a great explosion had taken place underneath it. Also the English church, a large brick edifice, was thrown across the street in heaps. The foreign cemetery was as if it had been bombarded, the monuments broken and the slabs thrown aside as if a resurrection had taken place. We all took courage and firmly fixed our faith in the blessed hope of His glorious appearing.

Our Bible woman and Bros. Kimura, Kishii, and dear Bro. Swanson our Salvation Army friend accompanied us to the boat. We wept much as we separated for our hearts were all knit together in the love of God. Poor tired brothers and sisters, wet, and only one thin piece of clothing on and that dirty, no home; no food in sight—thus amid a storm of wind and rain we said good bye, waving our hands. We had no hats, all went up in the flames. Church, mission and Bible training home, all furnished with all we had, reduced to ashes, the common fate of all. We took joyfully the spoiling of our goods, knowing God’s ways are not our ways, He knoweth, and “all things work together for good,” whether we can see it at the time or not.

At the Front of The Battle

We had felt definitely led of the Lord not to go to the cool mountain resorts to spend the summer as most all of the mission-aries do, but just to stay in the city at the battle’s front and to pitch our gospel tent in a new and neglected locality where the gospel had never been preached and the people had never heard of Jesus the mighty to save. Anyone knows the chances for being wounded are more at the front of the battle than in the rear behind the stumps, so we battled away during the hot summer months preaching nightly to large crowds who attended and listened with rapt attention. Scores, responded to the gospel call and the altars were filled with dear hearts seeking God and finding Him, whole families were gloriously saved.

The tent meeting was closed about two weeks before the disaster; however, the people of that community begged us not to leave them but to build a church for them there, therefore we contracted with a man to build a church which was under construction when the quake came and so far as we can know nearly all the new converts were swept into eternity to be with Jesus before they were tempted to backslide. How we do thank God that He helped us to obey Him and that we stayed in the city and preached the gospel to thousands in the open air and everywhere. We had never seen such a revival spirit in Japan before. It seemed everybody wanted to hear the gospel. People came from long distances to our home to pray. God is so faithful He had been drawing on hearts and wooing them to Himself knowing the time for them was short in which to seek and find the Savior.

Personal Work and Street Work

We had such a strong desire to get the gospel to as many as possible during the hot weather and as old and young, and all classes, are out in the streets during the summer it affords a splendid opportunity for sowing the seed. Crowds would gather and stand and listen for hours and we just wondered why there was such a deep interest being manifested, but it was God’s faithfulness in giving them their last message. Many came to our home as early as 7:30 in the morning for prayer and at the mission there was deep interest in every meeting and large baptismal services were held with the power of the Holy Spirit resting upon them. During the summer many asked me, “Why are you not up in the mountains?” We said, “We are not loafers and it is too expensive up there, also business men object to missionaries taking such long vacations each year as they can only take from one to three days at a time, and some might be saved by our remaining at our post of duty.”

A sun worshiper became very much interested in our talk with him. He said after praying five minutes to the sun he could look through the people’s heart and tell whether they were honest or not when they came to deal at his store. We remarked if he could do that, the God who made the sun could do far greater, He the Creator, the Living God whom we served. I gave him our little paper in Japanese, “The Fukuin Tankaito” (Gospel Searchlight) which his wife read also and became convinced of the truth and the light of heaven shone into their hearts and they were both trusting in Jesus when the quake came and they perished, as the land in that section was opened in hundreds of places. We believe through our ministry there will be some trophies from that section for our summer’s work which will shine as the stars forever; although dear wife bears, in her left arm, scars of a brave soldier, one, who never questioned God or complained, knowing “He doeth all things well.” Thanks be unto Jesus who giveth strength and victory.

On Board the Mercy Ship

Our long weary walk is over and at last we are at the harbor waiting in the drenching rain anxiously inquiring, “When will a launch come for us? Will there be room enough to take us in? What, if after all this long walk we could not get aboard, could we possibly stand here for hours or wait until another day?” were questions many asked. At last we see the launch coming speeding toward the shore, every one takes courage as the British officer steps ashore and says, “Take your time, plenty of room for all” as he helps aboard those who are unable to help themselves, and how safe we felt leaning on the strong arm of the kind officer who pressed his way through the crowd and all the time taking great care that no one bumped into those who were wounded. At last we are in the launch and speeding over the rough waters until we reached the ship outside the breakwater. For a time it seemed we might never reach it as the gasoline engine gave some trouble and refused to work until our launch had drifted far away from the ship, but at last the engineer regulates the engine trouble and soon we are drawing along side the great ship where again the strong arms of kind officers assisted us up the long flights of steps and landed us safely on board. At last we are on the deck. How good it seems to hear every one speaking our own language, and kind nurses on each side assisted Mrs. Moore to the waiting room and brought us large bowls of Oh, such good barley soup, it surely was the best we ever did taste. We were so hungry, so thirsty, so tired and dirty, we could only sit there weeping and thanking God for His love and mercy to us. Then the ship doctors bandaged the broken arm, we had a hot bath, and passengers divided their clothing with the refugees but our bed must be the deck floor, nice and clean. All things ready we lift anchors and sail for Kobe, reaching there next morning at 8:00 o’clock. At the next pier in full view lies the “President Jefferson.” Leaving wife alone I hurry off to see if we can get space for two. At first they say no, but after considering they said, “yes, there is a small plain room in the hospital ward No. 5, and if I could be nurse for Mrs. Moore we could take that as they were limited for help. We gladly consented, then with the help of some Eurasian boy scouts of a school in Yokohama (but had been away to Kobe on vacation) they helped us along the dock and brought a Jinricksha to take Mrs. Moore to the “President Jefferson.” Thank God at last we are on board the American ship, not forgetting the kindness of the Canadian captain and crew, for the “Empress of Canada” was mercy ship No. 1. The Jefferson, carrying a full capacity list of passengers, took on one hundred and fifty-two refugees, some badly wounded. One woman had her leg cut open between the knee and the ankle and she had to walk a mile through fire and smoke with burning buildings on each side and she with her husband and little four weeks old baby for which she manifested a dislike saying, she “never had kissed it for it was not made to order.” Poor woman, like many others, “without natural affection,” hating even their own offspring. But God heard our prayer, as we earnestly implored the blessing of God upon all on board and asked for a safe trip and a smooth sea across the Pacific, which had so recently experienced a great upheaval of its mighty waters when the ocean bed blew out under a large island, ripping it into pieces, and sank with all on it, a total loss of property and thousands of lives. Our Lord said there would be great raging waves of the sea and men’s hearts failing them for fear. His prophecy fulfilled before our eyes. Luke 21:25-28. Coming out of Kobe harbor, after another day and night, we find ourselves again in sight of the one time Yokohama, now the city of destruction. We pass the great fortifications all of which are destroyed and guns pointing downward. In ten seconds of time God destroyed more strong forts than several hours of bombarding with sixteen inch guns could have done. We again drop anchor in Yokohama harbor a couple of hours, just long enough to take on other refugees. Soon the twelve o’clock noon gong sounds on board and we lift anchor and depart for America. Never shall we forget the sense of awe and heart sickness as that ship gong sounded our departing. It was as if the funeral knell of the millions of dead was being tolled and we were constantly in tears for the sake of the dear missionaries and Christians left behind, unheard of as yet at our departure, and Christians wet and homeless, no food or water, amid the roving brigands with knives tied to bamboo poles hunting for prey. On board we asked again special prayer for the suffering that God would not let one die, and the result was, not one on our ship died and the trip over the ocean was said by all the ‘” to be the smoothest in many months.

We reached Victoria, B. C, Sept. 15th, and after a few hours there many were refreshed by the good fresh milk and flowers and so forth which were sent on board by loving hearts who felt a deep sympathy for those who were wounded and had lost all their earthly possessions. During the night we proceeded on to Seattle arriving there Sunday morning at three o’clock. No one was allowed, however, to land until seven o’clock. Bro. Leonard Cross and wife, and also Brother Brousseau and wife from Bell-:ngham, were there to meet us, and finally we are ashore with a sheet tied by the four corners (substitute for our wardrobe trunks), which contained a few things that we pulled out of the wreckage; and no home this side of the ocean, as all we possessed was in ashes in Japan. We were conveyed to a reasonable hotel and there we committed ourselves to God to care for us and supply our needs which He graciously did. He never faileth. Mrs. Moore’s arm was quite badly twisted, having never been set, and the unskillful surgeon in Seattle only delayed the recovery in order to experiment and make a bill. Finally after six weeks had passed and wife was able to travel to Long Beach, Calif., a good Christian surgeon, one who believes in Jesus Christ, agreed to set the bones and straighten the arm so it would become normal. He said he could do the work but God alone could do the healing as the muscles and ligaments had all contracted so badly and the bone splinters, clotted blood, and broken tissue had to be removed. Just think how that arm had stood in that condition for six weeks without inflammation or pain, or blood poison. To many people this seemed almost unbelievable, but with our God all things are possible and He did keep that which was committed unto Him. Mrs. Moore had no temperature at any time, tho it took real grace and patience to stand the strain for those days lying on the mountain and eleven days on the ship and one month at Seattle, but His grace is sufficient for every test in life, and “we know that all things work together for good to them that love God, to them that are called according to His purpose.”—Rom. 8:28. Some one might say if you believed God was able to heal, why did He not heal you instantly? Because His ways are not our ways and He had a plan to work out. Mrs. Moore’s brother, who was backslidden from God, and from preaching the gospel, and was in a serious condition spiritually was saved, restored, and is now preaching the gospel.The Destruction of Tokyo by Quake and Fire (The Moral Conditions)

TOKYO, the national capital of Japan of about three and one-half million population was seething with Bolshevism and extreme views on matrimonial lines were being advocated by Mr. Kurata and other writers of magazines, setting forth such teachings as matrimony not being the climax of love but a “death pact” the highest point of true love to be attained. Mr. Arishama, famous novelist and writer, set the pace for the loose lasciviousness of the depraved people by eloping to Karuizawa with Mrs. Hatano, also a famous writer and wife of a well to do business man. They indulged themselves and then committed, suicide by hanging themselves after strapping their bodies tightly together. They were supposed to enter into a beautiful flower garden where they can play and enjoy themselves to their heart’s content out of reach of their persecutors. This is The-osophy, and heathen philosophy (much practised also in more civilized countries where spiritualistic seances and various devilish cults have sprung up). Many love affair suicides followed Mr. Arishima’s death pact idea to such an alarming extent that the daily pilgrimage of the unfortunate to Karuizawa, and the suicides were reaching hundreds all over Japan. Many made the house a shrine of worship where the death pact had been consummated and the president of the N. Y. K. Japan Steam Ship Co., who owned the house, ordered it razed and the spot guarded to prohibit the love (lust) victims from following the example on the spot where Mr. Arishima committed the fatal deed. “When lust hath conceived, it bringeth forth sin, and sin, when it is finished, bringeth forth death.” James, 1:15.

Political Crisis and Social Corruption

PEOPLE were clamoring for franchise and great crowds were marching in front of the Capital Palace demanding democratic liberty and making threats; something was sure to happen. The army was drilling to the highest point of efficiency and the navy constantly at target practice and continued at the same for three days after the quake. Imperial orders must be obeyed even in time of so great a calamity. The military headquarters at Tokyo were broken up and no one to issue orders; therefore the poor people must suffer and die for lack of aid. Three-fourths of Japan’s population are tired of iron handed oppressive Imperialism, and are going to start a rebellion or fierce revolution if they are not allowed more freedom in franchise and a more liberal democratic form of government.  Before the great destruction the people had massed together by thousands carrying red banners, some of the inscriptions read “destructive associations” and “down with the present government.”  Tokyo was a bedlam of contentions and strife, fighting in the universities almost killing the president of the “Tokyo university.”  Lawlessness whether justifiable or not to some degree, by the treatment of teacers and selling scholarships and committing sin set the pace for moral destruction, especially at Waseda University where they had to their credit over one thousand feminine students whom they had led into lives of shame and made them secret servants to gratify their lustful desires; thus Tokyo with her pride and her boasted philosophy and art, shuddered under the terrible weight of sin fulfilling the prophecy of Isaiah 24:20-“The earth shall reel to and fro like a drunkard, and shall be removed like a cottage; and transgression thereof shall be heavy upon it; and it shall fall and not rise again.” Prostitution is legalized with about thirty-five thousand girls at Asakusa segregated quarters and there was said to be no less than two hundred thousand licensed girls in Tokyo alone netting the government one million two hundred thousand yen annually. There was no restraint taught, just indulge and enjoy yourself to your fullest satisfaction on all lines.

Hell Enlarged

Like as of a lightning flash, and as the sound of cannons roaring poor, proud Tokyo begins to shake like a drunken man, Isa. 24:20. Listen, her towers are falling, iron bridges are twisted and thrown down, her dancing houses are all aflame, hundreds of thousands of victims are surging back and forth surrounded by fire, soon the shrieks of woe and thirty-five thousand are roasted alive in one park alone; but the end is not yet. The greatest tragedy of all was in the Hon jo district formerly occupied by the imperial army and navy clothing department, (but the buildings had been torn down) and about twenty acres of land now vacant. This was supposed to be an ideal retreat for homeless refugees fleeing to escape the fires that were raging on every side, as the terrestrial vibrations continued in violence with nerve racking incessancy, the swarming safety seekers increased to about forty thousand, and still there was plenty of space on the twenty acres of ground. Surely no one could imagine danger from fire in such a commodious haven of retreat. But a great danger approached as the people poured into this section with what clothes and furniture they could carry. Suddenly fires encircled them, but they had followed the “ancient precept” that the best place of refuge in time of earthquake is to flee to an open field or bamboo grove as the bamboo roots matted together are not apt to allow the ground to crack into open chasms, thus you feel secure. The open fields is next best as there will be no danger of being struck by falling tiles or bricks or crushed under falling walls (all rich men’s homes have high walls of stone or brick, the middle classes have board fences seven feet high, the poor are exposed, no walls of any kind in most cases, just a single room for a family of six or more packed together like pigs in a sty).

Whirlwinds of Fire in the Twenty Acres

A Japanese Christian man realizing the fearful predicament began warning the people and entreating them to repent and turn to Jesus. Some threw mud on him but many fell on their knees and repented as whirlwinds or fiery geysers roaring like thunder swept down upon them, “For behold the Lord will come with fire and with His fiery chariots like a whirlwind, to render His anger with fury, and His rebuke with flames of fire.” Isa. 66:15. The swirls of fire geysers sucked up many into the columns of smoke and they were thrown hundreds of yards away, while the forty thousand roasted alive in the great conflagration. One man supposed to be the preacher was caught up with his son from the midst of the shrieking, roasting hordes and was seen to disappear in the clouds high up in the air, the two sons were killed. The mother who miraculously escaped told the story.

Brother Juji Nakada writes, “I want to let you know the most beautiful story. Mr. Higuchi, who came to Tokyo some years ago and was converted under the ministry of one of my fellow workers, when the great quake came, he and his family escaped to the military clothing ground where over forty thousand people assembled. When he saw their doom had come he began to preach to the people to repent of their sins and believe in Jesus Christ as their Savior. Many people at once prayed to God for salvation and were saved from their sin. He had preached about fifty minutes under fierce opposition from some who were mocking and throwing stones and mud on him saying, “There is no God, no Buddha in such a time as this.” While he was preaching a whirlwind of fire came and he was taken out like Elijah, and disappeared in the clouds. Report from Jessie Wengler Hachioji, Japan

I KNOW that you are anxiously awaiting a letter from Japan with the news of our safety and we are glad to report the wonderful keeping power of our God in the time of awful calamity through which we have just passed. Thousands are today without homes and families, and with insufficient to eat, and the sad and harrowing sights that we see on every hand make our hearts ache and nerves are almost at the breaking point.

This is the worst calamity and catastrophe that has ever come to Japan, and I trust that I shall never pass through anything like it again. There are today at our very doors thousands and hundreds of thousands without homes, without their loved ones, with not enough to eat and their only possession the kimonos that they wear. There are hundreds of thousands suffering from wounds and burns which they received in the terrible earthquake and fire. In Yokohama alone there were 500,000 buried under the fallen structures and burned in the fire that followed the earthquake. In Tokyo there were even more as it is a larger city and it has been stated that in one park alone, where thousands had fled for refuge from the flames, 35,000 burned to death from the flames which surrounded them on every side. Such awful scenes no one can imagine unless they pass through such a terrible calamity. Surely the seals spoken of in Revelation are being opened and we who have witnessed this awful destruction can readily believe that the Word of God is true and literal in its application and not in any way figurative when applied to the wrath and judgment of God.

Such a complete destruction of a city cannot easily be imagined; but it is today a heap and utterly destroyed. At the first shock practically every house in the city went down with thousands caught underneath, and in a short time fire broke out all over the city. Soon the city was a place of terror and, as a Salvation Army man said to me, “If anything could be nearer a living hell, I do not know what it could be.” From under every building came awful screams for help with no one to deliver. Some managed to dig their way out and to escape for their lives to parks and hills and mountains from the flames that came from every side and all at the same time. The water mains had been broken in the earthquake and there was no way to fight the fire; besides practically all the firemen and the police force had been killed in the earthquake.

The rich and the poor, the foreigners and the Japanese were all alike—lost all they had. One man, who was caught under the Grand Hotel, one of the finest for foreigners in Yokohama, was so pinioned that he could not get out and the fire was rapidly approaching. He offered anyone who would deliver him $10,-000.00 which he had in his pocket, but those who heard his offer, although they would have gladly delivered him! for no price at all, could not get to him for the intensity of the heat, and the poor man perished in the flames. The richest man in Japan by the name of Yaseda lost all that he had and today has only the kimono that he wears and is in line with the rest receiving his daily portion of food that is allowed all the sufferers.

It is wonderful how the Lord kept me. The earthquake was just at 12:00 o’clock noon and we were just ready to eat our dinner when everything began to rock and reel in a terrible manner and there was an awful roar that made us feel as though the earth was going to break forth under our very feet. At first I held onto the door and prayed to God to help us, and He surely did. Then my servant and I felt that it was better to leave the house as it seemed every minute that it would fall in. So we ran out into a field nearby where hundreds of other terror-stricken people had fled for refuge. I cannot tell you how I felt, but I know that the Lord wonderfully preserved us. Being alone with no other foreigners and only my helper who does not know anything about trusting the Lord, or real faith, I called all the harder on the Lord who kept us and did not permit the destruction to come to us.

All that day the shocks continued and we could not go into our houses again, and all night we stayed out as the shocks continued and we did not know when everything would go down. But Hachioji suffered less damage than any other city of its size, for which we praise the Lord. On Sunday we went back into our house which had stood the shocks and had been only partly dam-aged and no fire came to our city. It is wonderful how the Lord has preserved all the missionaries. All are safe. Brother and Sister Juergensen have not yet returned from the mountains where they had been during the month of August. Their house in Tokyo was damaged and they cannot occupy it for some time and will stay in the mountains until things are remedied somewhat. The church in Tokyo was so damaged that they cannot use it until it is practically rebuilt. Every church in Yokohama was destroyed-—none left of any denomination.

After the earthquake I went as soon as possible to Yokohama, thinking to relieve the Christians and any whom I might help; and also to send a cable to you who are in the homeland. I could not send a cable or anything of the kind as Yokohama was in such confusion. There was a reign of terror for at least a week after, the Bolshevik element that had been in Tokyo and Yoko-hama were bent upon all the destruction they could do As vou know there is a great hatred between the nations

It was difficult for me to get to Yokohama at all as the roads had been torn all to pieces and the railroad and tunnels between here and there completely destroyed. As there were no men to go I felt I must go and bring as many as possible back with me to my Place which had not been so completely damaged. I was enabled to bring back with me some that were destitute and had lost everything they had, family and all. We do not know what is ahead, only that there is already a great scarcity of food and prices are very high and many to provide for. “

We know that those in the homeland are willing to make any sacrifice and that your prayers have ascended in our behalf When practically all the foreigners are returning to the states I felt that I would like to go too, but the will of God be done. The Lord knoweth the way that we take, and His grace is sufficient. If any should be led to send for the relief of sorrow stricken hearts and needy people we will see that such is distributed and we can relieve some of the Pentecostal Christians who are not so apt to get help from other sources. In His love and service, I am,

Yours,Jessie Wengler.

America the Levite to the Stricken People

As soon as word had reached America that a great calamity had befallen Japan she began soliciting funds, food and clothing; despatching them as quickly as possible; millions were sent and relief work by the Red Cross and the Asiatic fleet which came speeding from the China waters, all helped to alleviate the suffering of about half a million wounded and a million or more homeless people which had been nerve wrecked and most of their relatives perished in the consuming fires as they had no place of safety in such a time of judgment.

At first when the U. S. battle fleet came in some of the Japanese thought they had come to take advantage of their helpless situation and ordered them to stop patrolling between Tokyo and Yokohama, and also to leave the harbor, but the brave American Admiral assured them they were only come for their good, and soon as they were sure their people were all safe they would depart, which they did after they had pitched tents at Tokyo and Yokohama to help care for the wounded and dying and feed the people. An American colony was formed at Yokohama on the reclaimed ground adjoining the harbor near the French Consulate, a large stone building which had collapsed and killed their ambassador and family.

The Nipponese were very, very grateful to America, and Premier Yama-moto received his first check, amounting to one million dollars, from Mr. Cyrus B. Woods, U. S. Ambassador to Japan He expressed himself as very thankful and assured Mr. Woods of most cordial friendship between the two nations in the future. America is open handed and open hearted as a people and very benevolent and possesses many praying people, thus God has blessed her and spared her from great calamities thus far. There are, however, fires of lawlessness, greed and national sins which will in the near future, if not repented of, bring in upon us a flood of swift destruction on wicked cities such as Los Angeles, San Francisco, Seattle, Vancouver in the west, and New York, Chicago and all larger wicked cities of the east, and all over the country where graft, greed, and pride prevails. Sins of the flesh unrestrained, divorce on the rampage, spirit affinity marriages, and a mad rush of fast living in general will sooner or later swamp a nation.

American and British Consuls Killed

According to these men, Mr. M. D. Kirjassoff, American Consul in Yokohama, and his wife, were both killed at the American consulate, which collapsed and burned, Mr. Hugh Home, British Consul in Yokohama, is also dead it was said. Yokohama, including the bluff and the foreign settlement at Yamashita Cho, is absolutely destroyed. It is feared many foreigners were killed, and many were at the Grand Hotel. When the first terrible shock came, some were in their offices, some in their houses, some in the Yokohama Club. All immediately scrambled into the streets. In so doing many were pinned under in between falling buildings or under falling roofs. Several husbands or wives were either killed or injured in their endeavor to save each other.

The heat of the raging flames was so unbearable that many jumped into the harbor. Fortunately some could find pieces of wreckage by which they could keep themselves floating on the sea until they were picked up. An employee of the American Shipping Board, Yokohama, was seriously injured about the face and on the legs. All these men escaped in their shirts and trousers. As a matter of fact, some lost all their clothing and were given shirts and trousers aboard the ship. The sight of these landing at the American pier was pathetic. The rest of the foreign refugees were being taken care of aboard the Empress of Australia in Yokohama. Foreign boats were transporting passengers and cargo between ports on the Japanese coast, which the law of Japan had hitherto prohibited.

Imperial Princesses Dead

The Prince Kanins villa at Odowara, where he and his family were staying, caved in. In escaping Princess Kanin, the daughter of Prince and Princess Kanin, was pinned in under a falling roof and killed instantly. Princess Yamashia has since died; also the Dowager Princess Kaya is dead.

Princess Hiagshikuni and her family escaped except the second son who was killed on the spot. Great anxiety was felt about the safety of other members of the Imperial family at Yokosuka, Hakone, Numazu, Akakura, Hot Spring and Karuizawz. Prince Sadashige Shirnazu was killed at his estate at Osaki; also it was fauna that H. I. H. Prince Hirotada Kacho was found dead on a train in the first tunnel in Yokosuka, as there was a land slide over the train.

Hakone Off the Map

According to Mrs. Mann, wife of the Rev. John C. Mann of the Momoyama Middle School Osaka, who returned from Hakone on the night of September 3rd, all the houses are caved in and wrecked, also the hotel at Miyanoshita is in ruins This hotel was where the high officials of Tokyo spent week-end and summer vacations reveling in sin with dancing girls. (The writer was there just three days before the quake and saw what was going on.) Prior to the earthquake, the water in the wells at Hakone was dirty, and this was generally thought to be a sign of the approach of a typhoon or an earthquake Then came the shock. Nobody in the house could stand; everybody fell flat. Mrs. Mann crept out into the road with great difficulty. The quake was so severe that Mrs. Mann and a Japanese woman creeping on the road found themselves passing by each other back and forth several times. When the Hakone Hotel fell,

it was feared many foreigners were killed. An English couple staying near the hotel, visiting friends in the hotel were killed. They left a child at home. Foreigners all fled from Hakone. Many large cedar trees were thrown down, shaken out by the violence of the quake, blocking all traffic between Hakone and Motohakone. Mountains dropped down and disappeared. “When God ariseth to shake terribly the earth, positively nothing man has ever constructed will ever be able to stand. Take warning. Greater things yet to come.

Aged Japanese Leader Miraculously Escapes Harm in Disaster

One of those who escaped bodily harm in the earthquake and fire was Madame Kajiko Yajima, the 90-year-old suffrage advo-cate and president of the Japanese Christian Woman’s Temper-ance Society.

After her home had been damaged by the earthquake she was removed by three girls to the residence of Marquis Kurods, when she was obliged to flee, because of fire, to the First Regiment barracks. She was later assisted to the Woman’s Refuge home.

Yokohama Poking Up Through Ruin of Late Disaster

YOKOHAMA is one of the bravest sights on earth today—as well as one of the saddest, for Yokohama is poking up through its grave. Yokohama, dead and buried, is refusing to remain that way. There is life in Yokohama—business—people living and working there. They are putting up sheds and shacks —flimsy shanties made from blackened bits of tin! Anything to keep off the rain! They don’t expect to keep out the cold.

Yokohama was dead. All the world knew it. All Japan knew it even better—but Yokohama is poking up through its grave. It isn’t being rebuilt. That isn’t the word. It may never be “rebuilt.” But it is carrying on, after a fashion—and to anyone who knew or who can even faintly imagine what Yokohama was after the quake, even to carry on, in whatever fashion, is a wonderful thing—a sad thing—and tremendously brave.

Ships are coming in and out of Yokohama. Out of all its once proud waterfront just a portion of one pier remains. And it is lopsided and is warped into waves and convolutions. But it is the only thing in all the former harbor alongside which ships may tie. Between this bit of pier is a long stretch of water— once a great continuous steel and concrete pier before the earthquake wrenched most of it into the water. This space is now spanned by a pontoon bridge—cumbrous Japanese sampans, sprawled side by side between the shore and the remaining piece of pier, and the boats covered with crude bridging, a bridge that tosses up and down and swings from side to side. Over this flimsy gangway goes every passenger and every pound of freight or baggage that enters or leaves Yokohama.

Ashore, the picture is still one of more utter destruction than anything the world war afforded. But in the midst of this the sheds and shacks and shanties are commencing to appear. The chamber of commerce is housed in a thing that would be a rather poor shed on a rather poor farm in a rather poor region in America. The silk association has another shed of the same caliber. They are the finest structures in Yokohama.

Stevedores, shipping agencies, export and import firms, all the businesses which are vital to a port, are building sheds and shacks, too.

There are scores of hole-in-the-wall restaurants made from scraps of wreckage, bits of galvanized iron, where the coolie workmen are building the shacks and piling up the debris and carrying the loads of material where they can buy their bowls of rice and tea.

The American consulate is doing well, thank you, in some army tents, and the British consulate is built out of nice, new lumber, too, and that’s something to boast of in a place where a fire-blackened board is not a thing to be scorned. There are graves scattered—like the hurried graves on a battle front. A crude cross, marked “R. I. P.”—sometimes a name; sometimes just “unknown.” There are many places where men shudder when they pass—places where loved ones died in agony. There is dust and dirt and noise. It is possible somebody in the place may once have had a shave—but I doubt it. There is a crazy little tent-restaurant, with the announcement: “Earthquake Cafe—Eggs and Likor—No checks.”

Over there is a place where a friend was killed—and over there —and over there. The shacks are going up all around, and old Yoko is poking up through its grave.

Two or three days before the earthquake while in prayer one day the Lord gave me several verses of a poem although now I can only remember four. They are as follows: (By Mrs. B. S. Moore)

Life’s scenes have changed

So soon all around us

The ocean deep and wide

Now roll between,

Hearts which loved then

Still love on forever

And earth joys changed so soon

To heavenly scenes.

We’ll catch the broken threads

Which here are severed,

And sing together

As we used to sing

Accompanied by the heavenly harpists

Only when the bells of heaven

Chime their echoes in.

Hark, we hear the voice above the tumult,

Saying ready be my Bride to come away;

Soon we’ll meet our blessed Bridegroom,

JESUS And the smoke of all earth’s battles cleared away.

In Bride attire with arms outstretched and waiting,

Our hearts cry out Lord Jesus quickly come

And from all earth’s heart-break, pain and

Take Thy Blood washed to Thy heavenly home.

Inside the same week many went to their heavenly home and we were rolling upon the billowy ocean separated far from those we had learned to love in the Spirit.

Earthquakes May Vitally Affect Nippon Policies Imperialism May be Checked as Result of Catastrophe

JAPAN’S entire future international policy will have to be changed because of the devastating catastrophe that has so greatly reduced her wealth.

The militaristic leaders will be unable to engage in foreign ventures and their expansionist schemes must give way for years to come to domestic economy necessary for the reconstruction of Tokyo and the other devasted areas.

Out of the most terrible earthquake destruction in Japan’s history a democratic form of government may emerge. The earthquake came at the precise moment when the appointment of Count Yamamoto as premier by the reactionary influences marked the opening of a new struggle between the democratic forces of Japan and those favoring a continuation of the clan and militaristic autocracy which has the final say at Tokyo in all important matters of policy.

Imperialism Is Checked

Had there been no earthquake, Count Yamamoto would have been expected by the reactionaries to develop a policy of impe-rialistic tendencies, especially aimed at overawing China and making Japan’s influence at Peking dominant by means of threatening gestures. The enormous property losses caused by the earthquake and the conflagration on Japan’s main island have abruptly terminated such activities by the new Yamamoto cabinet.

Instead of distracting domestic attention from the anti-demo-cratic tendencies of Japan’s leaders by imperialistic steps abroad, Count Yamamoto must give all of his attention to saving his country from falling to third or fourth class rank as a world power. The present calamity is more devastating than Japan has ever suffered through any war, because the Japanese islands have never been invaded by an enemy. The result is as if a war had been fought within Japanese territory and the enemy had been more ruthless than the Germans in France.

Faced by such a situation, the reactionary Japanese political leaders will have to amend their foreign policies entirely. No money will be forthcoming for aggressive movements abroad. All of Japan’s surplus wealth for an indefinite time must be used to reconstruct the devastated areas. This is a work which will call for a united front by the Japanese regardless of party connections. Amid such movements democracy finds itself. Count Yamamoto, conservative opponent of progressive ideas, must become the instrument of democratic reconstruction or he will be swept from power. The elder statesmen can no longer point Japan’s attention away from home conditions.

Need Money at Home

The movement among Japan’s militaristics to make their country dominant in all international affairs relating to the western shores of the Pacific must be given up. This movement, which to many observers seemed to indicate a future Pacific war, cannot be pushed forward while domestic reconstruction calls for a revival of the samurai spirit for domestic salvation.

Japan has been considering plans for reconstruction of Tokyo and the surrounding area for some time. But the cost was con-sidered prohibitive and only small, piece-meal plans were accepted. Now, however, replacement on a gigantic scale has become imperative.

The result will be immensely to Japan’s eventual advantage, if the Japanese give their whole attention to the job. They are capable of pulling through and of modernizing their mediaeval political system as well as building a new capital to rank with any in the world. But the cost will be the cancellation of all aggressive foreign policies.

Work in the Country Villages Kaminiva and Isamaga Hara

The Japanese got a very bad opinion of the gospel of Jesus Christ because of the Catholics who first came into the country in 1652. The Japanese said, “So long as the sun shall warm the earth let no man come to preach the gospel. If he does he shall suffer the loss of his head.”

When Commodore Perry went to Japan he concluded a treaty with the Japanese and up to that time it was a crime for a Japanese to be a Christian. The missionaries had a chance to teach the English language so that they could trade with foreign countries. They could only speak of Jesus in secret ways, drop a little seed here and there. They went on for many years until the ban was lifted and the gospel could have right of way and people could accept Christianity if they chose, although in public schools they are taught that Christianity is painted in blood and they will always have trouble if they have anything to do with it. But the gospel is a light that lighteneth every man that cometh into the world. It took many years to translate the Bible and songs and to get everything in working order. There are many things to bring the heathen in to deeper light but we thank God for the Gospel of Pentecost which so marvelously changes the hearts of these dear people of darkened lands. Those whom we have worked among are non-church-goers for we are not “sheep stealers.” We do not believe in that kind of business. If we do not have enough of the power of God to gather in the people, God has not called us. We do not believe in building on other men’s foundations.

God in a wonderful way has opened up the darkened places. Villages calling continually for us. If you go into these villages independently, or on your own accord unless you have the good will of the officials you cannot accomplish a thing. The priests turn loose against a foreigner and, let the children and dogs make all the noise they can. But if you will go into a village invited you will have the hearts of the people. Wisdom is needed.

A man well known in one of the villages had a very wicked grandson who spent thousands of dollars in sin. He got so low that he became a milk boy and delivered milk at our house. We had a Bible woman who was very spiritual and she asked him about his life and told him of Jesus. (He had been so wicked that his wife’s people took her away from him.) When he came to the house about the third time she talked and read to him and got him down on his knees to pray. He was saved right there and went back to his village proclaiming what God had done for him. The people said they would like to see that white man who served such a wonderful God, and so it came about that we were invited to the village of Kameniwa.

They received’ us royally. We almost felt like a king and queen with the attentions showered upon us. The people came to see us from great distances. When they assembled for meeting they were as quiet as mice, filling up the garden and every inch of space. We spoke to them and were afterwards served with tea and sweet potatoes. Most of them could not sleep that night and about 4:00 o’clock in the morning they came to our sleeping compartment and wanted to know how to pray to the heavenly God. So they knelt down on their knees and wept and prayed through to Jesus. The Japanese are taught to never show emotion in public, but the Lord broke them down. There was one very wicked man saved and baptized with the Holy Spirit sitting by his fire box. He had killed many people and had swords fifteen feet long, and even his wife said he was too wicked to be saved, but thank God He did the work. Praise our God.

Miracles of Healing

Miracles of healing, as in apostolic days. Back in the inland country districts where the soil had not been broken spiritually God gave us about one hundred souls in three villages who are standing in the faith. Among these humble people many real miracles of healing are wrought in Jesus’ name. There was a brother who baptized his family by pouring gallons of water over each one of them. This was done before he knew anything about the gospel only that he had heard we were in a village fifteen miles away preaching the heavenly God to the people and Japanese were receiving great joy and peace in their hearts and also being healed of their sickness.

The Japanese believe in looking to their gods to try to get healed such as “Ojizo sama, Kanan sama, and Hachiman and the fox, Inari san, but there is no result and all their prayers are futile as were Baal’s on Mount Carmel. This brother has been mightily used of God and he and his son go about the villages praying for the sick and preaching repentance to the sin sick with great results.

The work there in the rural districts is very intact as the houses were only slightly damaged. One day when this brother was out in the country on a preaching tour the priests attacked him and asked him many questions as to why he had played traitor and forsaken the Japanese gods. His reply was “that he found the gods were no gods, and moreover, he had found the Living God who had made all things and also saved him and his family from their sickness. ” When the priests heard this they pounced upon him beating him shamefully and ducked him in the water, holding him under and at the same time pounding him with clubs. When he arose out of the water and mud he started to sing “Aratani umareyo,” “Ye must be born again.” This enraged the priests and they said, “you proud fellow, we will kill you,” so they took hold of him and again threw him into the water field, beating him severely. Thinking they had killed him now, they let him go, and he arose again praying, “Father forgive them for they know not what they do,”, with tears of joy running down his face as the Spirit came upon him. His persecutors fled and he crawled out and with hands uplifted to heaven prayed for his persecutors.

A Test of Their Faith

His wife took sick with dropsy and suffered agony in her body until she finally succumbed; four doctors pronounced her dead. They made incisions in her body and found no circulation. The body had become cold. Her husband and a small band of believers prayed. The coffin was brought and while the relatives were weeping and sorry to lose her, God had heard the prayers of her husband, and the resurrection life, that Spirit which raised up Jesus from the dead entered into her body and she stood up before them whole; ail the dropsical water passed out of her body and the incisions which the doctors had made healed perfectly. The unbelievers who were present fled in great panic and the only good kimonos they possessed were spoiled as they ran through the rice fields.

We went with this brother to a new village and he reported to me that the master of the house where we were to be entertained was very ill. We were asked to pray for him and while we were making some necessary preparation for the meetings, this brother went in and prayed for him and when we entered the room he had already prayed for him and he was saved and healed with hands up toward heaven shouting, “Kansha itash-imasu.” Many were healed of cancer, hemorrhoids, lung trouble and an invalid raised out of bed after seven years sickness and they are around doing their work. To God be all the glory. Beloved reader, pray for us to be enabled to do the work which God has spared us to do, and to keep these natives going on in the work which they can do far better than a foreigner, in their own country. Prayers and finances and men and women of God are needed in these closing days to sweep the battle on to a great final victory.

Yours in His glad service, waiting, watching and working until He says it is enough.

Evangelist and Mrs. B. S. Moore.

Appalling Testimony of Mrs. Mary E. Cross MooreMy husband and I were living in Yokohama, Japan, at the time of the great earthquake which destroyed the heart of the Japanese nation. This earthquake without exception is the greatest disaster the world has ever known. But God who is faithful did not leave us without warnings and forebodings of oncoming trouble.

As the hot summer months came on and all the missionaries were planning to spend the hot weather in the cool mountain re-sorts we had no desire to accompany them. Instead we felt strongly led of the Lord to pitch our gospel tent in a new locality and spend the summer preaching to thousands who had never heard the wondrous gospel. This we did, having outdoor meetings as well as tent meetings every night. A wonderful spirit of revival was on from the start and over ninety sought God and many were saved and healed. Little did we think that that was to be the last chance that community was to have to seek God, and find Jesus as their Savior. We believe many who gave their hearts to the Lord Jesus in those meetings passed on into their heavenly home during the disaster.

For weeks before the quake we had great burdens of prayer and felt something was going to happen. A Japanese seer had foretold great disaster coming to Japan by earthquake while another Japanese scientist had written in the daily paper a few weeks before, that careful scientific study had been made and there was no fear of any trouble from earthquakes for several years yet. This again fulfills God’s word which says, “When they shall say peace and safety, then sudden destruction cometh.”

This brings afresh to my mind a dream or vision which came to me. I heard a knock at the door and on opening the door there stood a woman dressed in a red suit which was covered in buttons large and small. On these buttons were carved crosses. She said to me, “I have come to warn you to be ready to flee from sudden and awful destruction.” She then disappeared. The red signified danger and the crosses suffering.

It all came true when on the first day of Sept., 1923, God let the great disaster fall upon the nation. It came so suddenly.

The weather had been almost unbearably hot for days but on Sept. 1st a heavy rain fell up until about ten thirty. Then the sky became clear as the sun drove the clouds away. My husband and Japanese pastor Hasegawa, had been down town all the morning on business and had just returned home about fifteen minutes before twelve o’clock noon. We sat down to eat our dinner, when we heard a noise as great as of the roaring of a thousand cannons. We looked at each other wondering what the fearful noise could be when the earth began to tremble and our house bounce up and down.

We were thrown in various ways, one at a time, and while trying to get out of the front door we were actually thrown across the room and out a side door. My husband was thrown free from danger, the roof of the house just missing his head as it fell. One of my Bible women and I were just behind my husband and were caught under the eave of the house as it fell. I was thrown against a fence and my arm across a tree with a beam across my neck. I could see my arm crushing but could not feel it. My Bible woman was a few feet from me. I could hear her praying but could not see her. As my husband was thrown free he immediately rushed to rescue me. He could not see me but could hear my voice. The Lord directed him and the first timber he touched was the one that was across my neck, and immediately it broke and I knew God would deliver me safely.

I felt no fear although I could see the large two-story house next to us swaying to and fro. God kept it from falling as my dear husband, a Japanese servant and another Bible woman worked with the strength of Samson to dig us out. Had the house fallen it would have ground us to atoms. At last I was free and husband sat me on a large rock in our yard while he dug out Miss Suzuki. Then we went out in the middle of the road to be free from the swaying house and prayed asking the Lord not to let my arm pain me. Mr. Moore took a piece of board from the fence and one of the Japanese girls took the band that held her kimono and they bandaged my arm and used the band for a sling. We sat in the road in great danger as the road was opening everywhere and the telephone poles laden with wires reeling ready to fall. There was no place of safety. People with ashen faces were rushing in every direction, asking where they might find a doctor, but alas! The doctors as well as other people were killed. The hospitals were all destroyed so there was no earthly help for the wounded and dying whose cries were filling the air.

Thousands were pinned under the buildings. Many were caught by an arm or a leg but no one to help them, so they had to lie and see their fate as the fire by this time was raging. In one American home as the house fell it caught four beautiful children in a window. The mother was unharmed and as she turned she saw her little ones with outstretched arms crying, “mama, save us, mama, save “us.” The dear woman was helpless and had to see her babies caught in the flames and burn. The mother became insane as thousands of people do in time of earthquakes. Many also committed suicide. Oh, that men and women would heed the commands, “Be ye therefore READY.” “Now is the day of salvation.” When God speaks to your heart, do not talk back to him and say, “Wait Lord until I put through another real estate deal or invest in more oil, and stocks of all kinds. Or wait Lord until I finish my college course, and attend another dance or party.” If you say that, then when God arises to shake terribly the earth,” as He says in Isaiah 2:19, where will be your refuge? Remember God doeth a swift work.

The city of Yokohama of 500,000 inhabitants went down in a few seconds time in the first great shock. After our house fell we thought of going to one of our mission buildings as it did not fall, but our servant boy said the fire was coming fast from that way and we must get to a mountain without delay. So we all started leaving all we had to be devoured by the flames, but we were so in love with Jesus and so thankful to Him for our lives that we did not even think of looking back to where our earthly possessions were left. All we had was what we had on, but before the fire reached the house Mr. Moore returned and pulled out a few pieces of clothing. As we went to the mountain we had to step across fissures in the road where the earth had opened and oh, such devastation and the wounded everywhere. The few houses then standing were dangerous to even pass by. At twelve o’clock that night another shock brought down the few remaining houses, and by morning the great city of Yokohama was a smouldering mass of debris and ashes, gone forever.

On the Mountain

As we started to the mountain we discovered others seeking a place of safety. Some who had escaped without injuries and some wounded were making their way to the mountain. Each one carrying some burden upon his back. Some with babies, others with a few articles they had gathered out of the wreckage. So we found it very hard to make our way through as the winding roads and paths were so narrow and the mountain side had shaken down and was sliding while we were trying to ascend. At last we were all at the top but found the grass covered places all taken so we located in an onion patch of soft ploughed ground. In the crowd we saw a man we knew. He belonged to a society called the Destructive Society. In other words ‘bandit.’ He came and spoke kindly to me and said he was sorry for teacher Moore. Then in a short time he brought a wicker reclining chair for me to lie on. He had taken it from a foreign house after it had fallen. God had touched his heart and each morning he took a pail and went down the mountain side where there were a few cows and brought me fresh milk. How I thank God for His care over us.

As the darkness of the night began to fall we had a feeling creep over us that is indescribable. The only light was from the flames of the burning city. In the darkness we heard only the groans and screams of the wounded and dying. Babies were being born prematurely and no one to care for them. The next day the dead had to be buried but there was not even a shovel to dig a grave, so they used a piece of an old hoe. Mr. Moore was called on to sing and pray as they buried their dead. It was a sad sight. Everyone wept, even the soldiers wept with bowed heads. We prayed that the Holy Spirit would plant seed into these hearts which would bring forth fruit unto everlasting life.

We knew not what awaited us; no home, no food and no clothes, but this we knew, we were in our Father’s keeping and felt no anxiety or fear. On the third day Brother D. G. Swanson of the Salvation Army, after looking for us, found us to our joy, and informed us that there was a foreign ship waiting to take all foreigners who wanted to go, and advised us we should leave as soon as possible because of my injuries. We asked God for strength to walk to the ship, then started, leaning on the strong arm of my husband and of Capt. Swanson. We finally reached the launch after a long walk through a drenching rain. As we passed through the foreign section where we had been accustomed to seeing such palatial homes and magnificent grounds, all was desolation, burned to an ember. The smell of burned and burning human flesh was terrible.

I could scarcely believe my eyes when I saw the remains of the Union church and the Christ church. They were large stone edifices, and as totally destroyed as if a heavy charge of dynamite had been touched off underneath them. As they were thrown across the street, we had to climb over the debris, under wires and trees and over dead bodies.

We passed men with long bamboo poles with knives tied on the ends. These they used as weapons such as they did in primitive days, but we had no fear for God was with us. We felt His presence all the way. We learned afterward that nine Americans had been murdered, two while on their way to the ship.

When we reached the pier we were taken aboard the launch and out to the Empress of Canada which took us to Kobe, four hundred miles south. Here we were transferred to the American ship S. S. President Jefferson. I had hoped that while on the Empress of Canada my arm had been set properly but on arriving at Seattle and having an X-ray taken we found the bones had not been set at all. I was sent to a Red Cross surgeon and they worked on the arm for several hours but failed to get the bones together one hundred per cent, but thought it would be all right. After seven weeks waiting we found there was yet no repair, the bones having slipped apart again by this time. I was able to travel so we decided to come to Long Beach, Calif. Here a Christian doctor called on me and examined by arm. He advised me to have the arm opened and the bones fastened together. He said he would do what he could, and God in answer to prayer’ would make it perfectly whole. I knew Jesus was able to put the bones together and make it whole without any aid, however, my faith did not touch Him for instant healing, as did the woman who touched but the hem of His garment and was instantly made whole.

I have known Him as a perfect physician for nearly twenty years. For some time I had a trouble in my side which hindered me from eating meat, also from sleeping on my right side. A few weeks before the disaster while at family prayer one morning I felt the Lord would have me be anointed with oil and prayed for according to James 5:14, 15. My husband, our Japanese pastor, and Bible woman prayed for me and I was instantly healed. We sent out and got a nice steak, cooked it for dinner. I ate all I wanted and felt fine. I have eaten meat ever since without hurting me for which I thank God and give Him all the glory. He is all powerful. We are so human we wonder often times when in great distress or trial why God does not deliver us when we first ask Him.” But God’s word says in Rom. 8:28, “All things work together for good.” If we hold steady He will bring His plan to pass.

Often times it takes physical suffering to break the strong hearts of others and cause them to yield and say yes to God. For some years my younger brother had been backslidden from God and preaching the gospel. Instead of feeding sheep he was feeding goats. I had warned him so often of the danger of disobeying God. He did not heed although he had great confidence in our prayers and faith. I wrote him just a few hours before the quake in Japan and told him I felt some calamity was about to fall unless he obeyed God. So after we returned home and he saw me suffering and knew my arm must be operated upon, he hurried home from town, called me into a private room and told me God had shown him it was because of his sin and disobedience that God had permitted me to be brought home so near death. I was very near and dear to brother’s heart. He was broken to pieces and has repented and come back to God, and has stepped out from business and, with his dear faithful wife, are now out in evangelistic work with my husband. I hope to join them shortly. God has spared my life for a wise purpose and I want to do his perfect will, and be counted worthy to hear Him say, “Well done good and faithful servant.”

Yours in His glad service,

MARY E. CROSS MOORE.

Destruction of American Bible Society

(By Rev. Karl E. Aurell)

FOR some weeks already the press has given you detailed and baffling reports of the terrible earthquake and fire which occurred in Tokyo, Yokohama, Yokosuka, and many other localities around these places. While some statements have been exaggerated, I dare say, some of the pen pictures though unbe-lievable are not any too strongly colored.

On the first of September (the memorable day of the beginning of the terrible catastrophe), just at 12:00 o’clock midday, I stood at the exit wicket at the railway station of Kashiwabara, one hundred and fifty miles north of Tokyo, awaiting a train by which Mrs. Aurell and son were returning from Karuizawa. I was hardly touching the bars at the side of the wicket, when I suddenly discovered a waving or staggering sensation. For a moment I wondered if there was something the matter with myself, but soon was convinced that an earthquake was on.

The heaving and waving to and fro of everything about me made me step out into the open space by the station, so as to avoid being struck by possibly falling tiles from the roof. The motion of the ground became so violent that it was almost difficult to stand still. Two square water tanks on the other side of the tracks opposite the station rocked to and fro extremely, making the water splash over in great quantities, first on this and then on the other side, until it seemed there would not be much water left in them. During this interesting time the train pulled in; but none of the passengers somehow had noticed that there was an earthquake. Forty minutes later, arriving at the lake, everybody was talking about the unusually strong earthquake, and wondered if something awful had not happened somewhere. Some wondered if Mount Asama, the famous volcano, fifty miles away, had not possibly erupted and gone to pieces, etc. I have mentioned the above to give you an idea of the terrible strength of the earthquake in the totally devastated districts, in view of what we experienced here one hundred and fifty miles away from there.

The Next Day

No news reached us here until about 9:00 o’clock Sunday morning, September 2. The reason for that was that all sorts of means of communication had been completely cut off. Then alarming reports came first by a milk man, and next by a telegram from Karuizawa. It was truly hard to believe that the whole city of Tokyo had been destroyed and was burning. But, as it was said that Mount Fuji was the center of the earthquake (that was not so,) we felt the reports no doubt could not be too strong. You may imagine the state of mind we were thrown into. What to think or do distressed us most extremely! Finally, that evening a party of us started off for Tokyo.

The trains were already crowded; and, as we rolled on towards our destination, people would literally “pile” into every car, even through the windows. The rudeness: and unreasonable things that were done made it practically impossible to avoid fights throughout the whole train. Just before entering the city suburbs, everybody had to get off the trains and walk across a river on a pontoon bridge. The railway bridge was supposed unsafe, and there was no bridge for the public near, outside of this contrivance. It was deemed unwise and dangerous for more than two or three hundred people to cross this pontoon at one time, and there were thousands of people on each side of the river, struggling to get over. Soldiers with bayonets had an extremely difficult time to guard and direct them. Had people been allowed to rush on freely, this bridge would not only have been broken down, but thousands would have been drowned.

At Tokyo

Well, we managed to get across; and walking a mile or more we scrambled with the masses on to another train, which took us just inside the city limits. Then from there, as no transportation facility of any kind was available, we walked, and walked, meeting thousands upon thousands of homeless people. The great and famous Ueno Park was covered with weary and disheartened refugees. Reaching the part of the park facing the largest extent of the city, we have our first view of the great devastation.

Oh, what a scene! On the left, the famous Ueno Station, with many hundreds of cars, all absolutely demolished to heaps of stone, brick and scrap iron. In front of us, for miles and miles the same condition prevailed. Electric cars, motor cars and everything reduced to ashes and rubbish. The wire entanglements in the streets made our progress slow. Telegraph poles were still burning—in fact they were the only pieces of wood that could be seen in the whole devastated district. At certain places much smoke and heat was still emitted, making it dangerous to pass by. One of my companions said that he had visited devastated Belgium and other places in Europe, but this scene to his mind surpassed that as a calamity.

We lingered a little in the Kanda Ward, at the city Y. M. C. A., the national Y. M. C. A., and the,’ Baptist Tabernacle. All these buildings were supposed to be fireproof, but alas, though the concrete walls, floors and stairways stood the test, every last thing inside of them had been wiped out of existence. Even the contents of a good safe in the tabernacle, when it was opened, had withered so that, when touched, they crumbled like ashes. The fine Salvation Army headquarters, the Y. W. C. A., churches, schools of all descriptions, and banks, all alike totally gone!

I cannot go into details—it would require days to do so. We spent the night at a missionary’s house in a spared part of the city. We were frightfully tired, so that we slept most sweetly despite hourly quakes that still came during the night. In the morning we started out together, but soon found that our different interests and objectives made it impossible to continue to keep together. At the temporary American Embassy offices at the Imperial Hotel, I registered all the members of my family as safe; and looking up Mr. Ziegler, who had spent the past terrible days in the hotel, together with him I walked over to where the Bible House had once existed. I knew it was destroyed before I went there. I had hoped that in some way the Lord might have preserved it; but he had allowed it to go with the rest.

The walls stood up very well; but the fire had done havoc with all that was consumable within. The only thing I could see was the safe. But I could not get to it because of the still burning timbers that had fallen down from the two floors and the roof above. On one of the walls Mr. Tanaka had stuck up a note for me, which said “Staff safe.” Having seen this, we walked up as far as the ruins of the Methodist Publishing House. Even the wooden blocks of the paved street were partly burned. Parting with Mr. Ziegler, I set out for Mr. Tanaka’s home. It took me at least three hours to get there. All was well there—only the plastering of his house had been pretty thoroughly shaken down. Some of the members of the staff had been to see him during the day. It was good to see them and spend the night.Mr. Tanaka’s Story

Mr. Tanaka’s story is too long to tell. The gist of it is: At noon of the first they were suddenly annoyed by a terrible rumbling noise and shaking of the whole building. Something like that had often happened when large motor trucks rushed by on the street. But this time it was unsually annoying, and increased and lasted minute after minute. They realized it was a terrible earthquake! What should they do? They grabbed the bookkeeping material and cash box, rushed downstairs, chucked them into the safe, shut it, and hastened out into the street. The earthquake lasted four minutes. Next door, in the drug store, inflammable acids somehow were ignited in the rear and started a fire. This was fought with might and main and happily put out, and all seemed safe in that locality. In many other parts of the city fires had started by the time our men went to their homes. They, of course, were anxious about their respective homes.

Tanaka and the assistant bookkeeper, before leaving the Bible House, had opened the safe and taken out the ledger and other important books, with the cash box, carrying away the same with them. Finding all well at his home Tanaka could not resist going to the Bible House again in the evening. He found it intact, and no fire in the immediate neighborhood. It was midnight by the time he got home.

Early Sunday morning he went there the second time; then what he had feared really had happened, the whole Ginza street had gone down in ashes. Of course there was nothing to do but to retrace his steps home, disheartened in the fullest sense of the word. He could get no information to me. He could not get a train out of the city. And, in addition to that, a report commenced to spread that the Koreans were up to mischief everywhere, throwing bombs and setting fire to the still remaining parts of the city. Tanaka was out every night till 12:00 o’clock, assisting the police in guarding their community. We do not know what to think of this scare. We are inclined to believe there were bad elements of the Japanese behind it. Yet, it does seem true that some of the Koreans took advantage of this occasion to give vent to their feelings of resentment against the Japanese. Time may make that clear.Further News

The first three weeks it was dangerous to travel. The extreme excitement, amounting to panic or mob psychology, was really alarming. Many of the missionaries I know met with very un-pleasant experiences. Though I traveled and walked about con-siderably in Tokyo, personally, I escaped such. I was not even questioned by a single person at any time.

By this time things have settled down remarkably. Everybody is busy. It is interesting to observe the diligence that is put forth practically on every burned-out little plot of ground, especially in Tokyo. As a result, as far as the eye can see from high points, already vast expanses of one-story galvanized-iron-covered huts are seen.

Yokohama

About two weeks ago I went to Yokohama. It is truly awfully depressing. As yet, the “settlement” (the whole section between the bluff and the bay), I mean the ruins are almost untouched. Hundreds of thousands of bodies are still uncovered. The condi-tion of the bluff is also deplorable. It is practically deserted. As a rule the buildings on the hillsides slid down to the base of the bluff, disappearing into the raging fires. You can imagine what awful things did happen!

The Fukuin plant fell in from the first shock. The employees who escaped by getting under presses, etc., have great tales to tell. One boy in the office said that he tumbled over and rolled under a “counter” accidentally and was saved. After the quake was over, he managed to knock out boards enough to get out. Besides Mr. Muraoka and his staff in the office and the seventy others, four of his immediate family in the old home in another part of the city were killed. That company and family were terribly hit, and we all feel badly over it.

A Fortunate Discovery

Two men of the Yokohama office of the Fukuin Press hap-pened to be in Tokyo, and thus escaped a like fate with the others. One of them is a Mr. Orisaka, who was their outside represent-ative. As a result of the disaster he forgot at first that large quantities of printed sheets usually were sent to a distant place to be folded for binding. About a week ago it occurred to him that we may have some printed sheets out there, and he sent word that investigation should be made. Later he went out to check up, and to his surprise he found we had printed sheets for nearly 13,000 books, and they were in fine shape for folding and binding. They are worth 3,600 yen—all paid for. That was a surprise to us also, and at the same time a very fortunate discovery. We have asked this man to see that they may be bound the soonest possible. Binding concerns are scarce in our part of ¦Japan these days, so that it will be difficult to get much done in that line until Mr. Orisaka gets started. The binding of these sheets in various styles will cost us more than 9,000 yen. But, let me say again, we are very glad for this discovery.

A Summary of Earthquake Figures

It is impossible to estimate accurately the loss of life and property in the time of a great earthquake disaster. Sufficient is known, however that September 1st, 1923, was the greatest seismic disaster recorded in history. Also that the first reports were not exaggerated. An earthquake is the most unnerving thing that a human being can experience. The Far East has experienced many earthquake disasters, but the severest seismic upheaval previous to the recent one was that of 1703 in Yeddo, Japan, the loss of life in that disaster was estimated to have been two hundred thousand.

In the matter of loss of property and life, and the extent of devastation, the Yeddo earthquake was only a mole hill compared to Mt. Fuji or Mount Ranier. A people with less fortitude or natural cheerfulness than the Japanese would have been prostrated by the magnitude of the great misfortune; no natural phenomenon can give you such a shock as an earthquake, and it is an eloquent testimonial to their courage that the Japanese are going about the work of reconstruction with great determination. Yokohama poking her head out of her grave of hundreds of thousands of dead and cremated in the ruins where one feels uncanny it takes courage for them to go ahead once more.

The licensed prostitute quarters were shut up so there was no way of escape and all were roasted alive; truly Hades opened her mouth wide to receive its victims. Yokosuka the naval base totally in ruins, where fifteen large tanks of oil and gas broke loose on the water burning for four days amid the submarines and torpedo boats; also many aeroplanes were reported destroyed.

The Island of Oshima explosion caused the total loss of all, the Island disappeared. In the tidal wave the ocean bed blew out and where it was before time five miles deep, it is said now to be twelve miles deep or bottomless. This convulsion in the seas caused a great upheaval of the ocean and the sea was rolling and roaring as the waters came with a mad rush over the beach towns and villages carrying everything before to destruction. The loss can never be told; eternity alone will only reveal as the beach was swept from Atami to the north east extremity of the Peninsula about forty -five miles.

Scientists tell us the gas pressure is high and the earth is caused to expand, letting in the water which causes a combustion, the interior of the earth being very hot and in places a molten mass of liquid fire. Amid whirlwinds of fire, forty thousand in one section perished; thirty-five thousand in another section, and in yet another thirty-two thousand five hundred licensed prostitute girls perished and many other fields of dead similar only greater far than any slaughter on any battle field, a more complete destruction and desolation.

Quakes are trying on the nerves of the little Nipponese. No sooner have they repaired their pontoons, and temporary piers, where the massive concrete ones collapsed, when here comes another disastrous shock and throws them into the sea again, and six hundred more homes go up in flames. It is very disheartening indeed. No wonder they become desperate and go insane, they are un-nerved and pressed out of measure.